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[Chris [Stockport]]

Not laughing at all. Much better to check; that's what you'd perhaps ask quickly if we were working on it together. Daft is not asking and then breaking something when you could have asked. I've never done that, of course ; )

Regards, Chris

P.S. A lot of left hand thread nuts have a little nick filed of them to show LHThread. Look at your mirrors where they join the handlebars...if they're anything like mine.

[brokeLad]

cheers Chris,

she's off! spindle gripped in copper lined vice and 1" combi spanner did the job.

[PeteF]

That's good then!

I should have mentioned soft jaws but some things are just instinctive in the workshop.
My aluminium soft jaws are almost always on the vice.

[brokeLad]

[brokeLad]

hooray! I managed to upload a picture!

So heres me front brake, any experienced eyes wish to pass comment on clues to poor braking? to me it looks like one pad is worn more than the other which would imply only one pad connecting or connecting first? quite tidy and clean in there though. I have also attempted to use chalk on the pads to define contact points with the drum but I struggled to apply the brake while turning the drum.....might be doing something wrong there? as always I look forward to all input. Ta

[PeteF]

There's a tech note on here on how to set up the TLS brake.

[Beezabryan]

I think relined shoes would be a good starting point, Mr H does exchange shoes
http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/ac ... ame-brakes
Without equal lining thickness I doubt if the brake would be very efficient. Tim NZ wrote a very good piece a while back on setting the action without the modification shown in Technical Notes. My own brake is set up the same way.
Just my thoughts for what they are worth

[ric]

When setting up the brake arms it's worth remembering that turning one or both of the cams through 180* can occasionally result in both arms ending up parallel instead of the random results obtained on the assembly line.

[p]

Looking at your picture, the left hand lining - that is the one directly worked by cable - is less worn than the right one. This would suggest to me that over a period of time the link rod may have been adjusted too short resulting in uneven wear, the usual cause of poor brakes. Of course any re-adjustment now would have to take the uneven wear into account, but not difficult if you choose to get some more miles out of these shoes.
The other thing I noticed, when in the "relaxed" position as shown, my cable lever would be much more visible, ie hanging lower, so I'm wondering if it is correctly positioned on the splines of cam? (Perhaps my shoes are just much thinner than yours!)
You will be aware of the "less than 90 degree" rule of angle between arm centre line and cable run when everything is put back together and the need for bottom and top levers to be parallel.

[brokeLad]

I agree P……I have P.Snidal manual and the Hitchcocks tech notes for correctly adjusting the front brake and I understand its 90 degrees with the brake applied. I may not be able to maintain the levers parallel if I am to attempt to dial in the thinner pad though?