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[Nobbi1977]

I still have not mine fitted.

I am tempted by the auto tune unit but might take to my friendly local dyno centre instead.

If the weather picks up I will get it fitted but I will be draining the fuel and covering it with a blanket before I get chance.

[jefrs]

It's a lovely damp autumn, only slightly moist, so not time to winterise and store the bike. I don't drain the lawnmower, I add a shot of Redex because it contains a petrol preservative; stored petrol goes off until useless. There was a time when I had to ride a bike in all weathers to get to work but an english winter is usually mild enough to dodge the rain drops. I reckon it's the better exhaust that adds the horses but that needs the PCV to fix the mix. Most car ECUs will self adjust if you alter the fuelling, this one doesn't seem to do that. A carb will fail emission tests because they're always too rich at idle where they check it but excellent up in the power band. So an injector has to be used to pass EuroV and they're all over the place needing ECU control fuel on the fly (the map). I gather Hitchocks have already done the dyno thing on a RE to produce their maps. However that won't tweak the mix for individual motor, fuel and load; I feed my engines premium juice because it's consistent, burns more efficiently and doesn't foul up the works. I reckon the AT200 is intended to fine tune the final part but as Hitchcocks don't offer the option, I'm wondering whether they've been there and found its a wasted effort.

[Nobbi1977]

Well the weather has been good so I fitted the PCV and went for a run. With the Hitchcocks map for the factory sports exhaust the bike feels so much better. Smoother and more willing to rev.

The bike sits happy at 65 now rather than 55 before and the exhaust is less boomy under acceleration.

Time and a plug chop will see if the map is perfect but so far the bike feels like I wish it had from the factory.

Worth every penny

[jefrs]

Nobbi1977, don't put too much faith in the plug colour, the EFi doesn't run like a carb. The HT cap on mine fell off the HT lead and the plug connection showed signs of spark erosion, I wouldn't put too much faith in the Bosch-India plug. Plug replaced with iridium, cap non-resistive (HT lead is captive to coil, nice silicone type but a trifle short). Having had a plug eject on a TR7 car something I learnt was don't pull plugs too often from an alloy head as it weakens the threads; it had to be helicoiled.

[Smudger]

I too am going to fit a PCV to my GT.
Are they easy to install with easy to follow instructions?
Are all the connections just like for like plug in ones without any splicing required?

I hate fiddling with electrics lol!

Dave

[Nobbi1977]

Hi

Plug replaced with an NGK early in ownership. Not iridium though, they are for long service interval engines and no extra benift for me, I will change every 12 months.

The stock plug did not look quality and I have "always" run NGK. I also have SBS brake pads to fit because I "always" fit them, must be some OCD going on...


PCV is easy to fit, just plug and play. Trying to find the correct plug and make the wires neat is the hardest bit. If you get one let me know I can post a few fitting pics.

You will need a new can though, a PCV will kill the CAT in the standard silencer.

I just won an autotune unit for a very good price so I am going to do some map tweeking early next year

[Smudger]

Thanks mate, I appreciate it.
I have a sports can already and a K&N, so I'm keen to get a PCV to get the fueling sorted.

Dave

[jefrs]

The iridium is NGK. It should last more than a year: if it's working, don't pull it out to look at it (alloy threads don't like that). The ones in the car do not get changed yearly nowadays. The PCV fit is straightforward apart from the very untidy indian loom. H provide pictures with instructions, just make sure you have the bike the same way round (I had a moment). Tank and seat off. There is room in the electrics box for the PCV on the C5. I managed to get a fault on the fuel sensor (not working) due to dodgy connector - so do check everything after reassembly. I have spoken to H and was told they have played with the AT200 but saw no benefit over their dyno developed maps.

[jefrs]

The fault on the fuel sensor was traced to dodgy instrument bulbs, one blew in such a way that it shorted the system, and blew the fuse; all three, fuel warning, EML and illumination blew. The bulbs are a pain to get at but a paint can opener (screwdriver) can prise the instrument out. The, 'it won't go back in' sorted with a squirt of silicone oil on the grommet.

The shed now has oil-rad heat which mainly serves to keep it dry rather than warm, condensation has gone completely, no more rusting tools and bike. I'm not storing the bike for winter. Gosh, we get so little winter it doesn't seem worth it; England doesn't have climate, it has weather..

Riding the bike down a lane that is basically a rutted stream bed full of leaf mould and loose gravel is interesting but possible, I did that yesterday.

[jefrs]

Nobbi1997, have to fitted your Autotune? How is that working out?



One thing I did was pull the crankcase breather hose off the airbox because all EFI systems like still air in there, not vibrated by 500cc displacement at whatever rpm (so opined the Viezu car ecu remap man). The was a tiny wee dribble of oil condensate in there. Fitted a breather filter, not as quiet, maybe a squeeze more mid-range. Hid the filter up under the seat and lost the mid-range, put it back and it returned. Not imagination.