Forum

[Steve T]

I'm with Simon on this I took his advice as regards the clutch cork plates and checked all clutch components were smooth on the tangs ect and just cleaned and greased push rods fitted new cable, and someone else's advice about when changing gear by taking up the pressure on the gear lever up or down before pulling the clutch and keeping pressure on the gear lever untill you let the clutch out made a huge difference to my riding experience. That being said it probably would be nice to have an extra gear, my bike a 2002 500 Classic. Hope you get sorted 👍

[PeteF]

The best thing I did to my 4 speed was fit a close ratio kit. This gets rid of the gap between 3 & 4. Well worth doing.

[simon]

I'd check the gearbox cover if you haven't fitted a stiffener. Without the installation of one of these you can have up to 5mm flex in the cover when you apply the clutch with total stuffs any chance you have of adjusting the clutch to a satisfactory position.

[PeteF]

I second that Simon, makes a bid difference.

[ogri]

Thanks PeteF. So you figure this is a better option than changing to a 5 speed 'box? As you say it's the big drop between third and fourth that sometimes is uncomfortable for the motor. By contrast the change from second to third is altogether different. Depending on the road I sometimes find that I'm constantly changing back and forth between 3rd and 4th

[PeteF]

Yes Ogri, it gets rid of all that nonsense. It doesn't alter top gear ratio but, if you have to drop into third, it's a lot better ratio. It does raise 1st and 2nd but I don't find a problem with that. Acceleration is also better through the gears without having to thrash the engine in third to get into top at reasonable revs. The 500, with a bit more power, doesn't really need the mod but the 350 is transformed.
You will still need to get the clutch action right but fitting the gearbox end stiffener helps a lot with this.

[Reg]

Just my tuppence worth. After five years of Bullet ownership I've finally got the knack of gear changing, for which I find steel toe-capped boots the best footwear. Changing up is rarely a problem so long as I maintain focus and carry out the task with due deliberation. Changing down is best avoided if at all possible. No longer do I approach a bend and drop down a cog for a bit of engine breaking. That will only end in tears. If I really must change down here is what I do: 1, close throttle and allow revs to drop, let road speed fall to well within the proposed new gears range. 2,Fully disengage clutch. 3,After you're very sure the clutch has completely disengaged, and with a purposeful mindset, firmly and accurately engage the lower gear. 4,gently re-engage the clutch. Remember,gear changing on a Bullet is a process, not an event. I don't know about the three-fifty, but I find my five-hundred has plenty of torque to get me back up to "B"road cruising speed from thirty MPH in top. OK, it may take a couple of seconds longer than if I'd changed down, but not if I found myself sifting through a box full of false neutrals.

[PeteF]

Reg, you'll get a better downward change if you blip the throttle as you disengage the clutch on downward changes. It's a knack to get the timing right bet we'll worth the practice.

[Reg]

I completely agree with you Pete. After fifty years in the saddle (oooo) that's how I've always made downward changes. But.....Bullets being what they are.....It's taken a lot of discipline on my part not to use the gearbox in the normal way, but my Bullet just won't have it. To be honest, I quite like the quirkiness of it. I call it the Tai Chi gear change.

[PeteF]

Strange. Mine won't have it any other way.