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[ChrisD]

Hi Guys
I have three questions regarding the rear wheel/brakes on my 1996 Classic 500 on which I’d welcome your expert guidance.
1. I have discovered the large bearing in the brake drum (short spindle) has shattered (maybe my chain was a bit tight – I have longer shocks and allowed a 60mm up-down play but that wasn't enough). A new sealed bearing is on its way from our hosts (the 2 hub bearings and chain/sprockets fortunately are all OK). I had to tap the brake bearing pieces out from both the hub and off the spindle - do I fit the new bearing in reverse or should that be a heat fit?
2. Is it OK to insert the long QD spindle from the left side instead of the right because the correct way around now fouls the silencer?
3. I should ensure the 2 bolts that hold the brake cam float a little to centre the brake - right? One nut was completely free, 2 threads off contact but the other nut was so tight the cam didn’t float, so one shoe was worn down by ~2mm compared to the other (and to new ones) after ~15000kms.
Cheers, ChrisD

[Gwilly]

Chris i always warm the alloy before fitting bearings, just seems easier fit and less likely to damage alloy..

If necessary with some silencers its ok to turn the axle/QD bolt around, makes no difference to fit or security..

Personal preference with cam plate, some have it free floating with maybe nylok nuts to secure. Manual says to partially tighten and then operate brake to centre and then carefully remove and fully tighten the nuts keeping plate in same position.. This does seem a half assed way of going about it though, i like floating idea better, will self position as the linings wear would have thought..

[Adrian]

I also use heat on alloy when fitting bearings, though in the case of the rear brake drum, it's cast iron, so less advantage to be had! A.

[Tim NZ]

You can fit the axle from the left or the right, just make sure you have adequate washers under the nut AND the axle head.


The rear brake shoes ALWAYS wear unevenly. That you have 2mm of difference means you NEED to replace them.


The rear brake cam is not, and never was, intended to free floating. Yes, a free floating brake cam can appear to be 'stronger', but in reality it is simply maximum servo action kicking-in in a nano second. (It was advised to free-float the 6" SLS front brake mainly because it was CRAP!)


Such a brake will be able to lock too easily on wet/slippery surfaces. With new linings (bedded in) and the brake cam set (and maintained) as per the manual, the brake should be able to lock in a controlled manner. If it does not, then it is not set correctly or the linings are glazed/contaminated (get some Brakeclean)


No need to worry about heat to refit the 6005 into the Iron Sprocket/drum. If anything you may need loctite?




What condition are your cush-drive inserts?


Replace the wheel bearings too; they are inexpensive, and why only do half a job?