Forum

[Paulk]

This pop up a while back - did exactly that on my Electra X

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/fo ... post_32422

[PeteF]

I'm with Alan here. I did this some time ago and fitted nylocs so the plate could float (just)
It instantly turned my rear brake from being almost useless to being able to lock the back wheel.

[Paulk]

If memory serves me right (it may not) but I recall that the bush holder itself was threaded. So you adjust the amount of "play/slide" with the bolts on the inside and then use to outside nuts to lock it - nothing is slack and shouldn't come loose - with or without nyloc's. I realized at the time that the "normal" way of centralizing the brake shoes wouldn't work because you can't slacken off the brake bush without having the brake in pieces.

[PeteF]

That rings a bell Paul, I think it's threaded too.

[Paulk]

Pete, having a colourful moment?

Yep I had a look at a photo and threaded it is. It's quite clear that since the bikes come with the bush "adjusted" tight and then glued with paint that at assembly and PDI folk have no clue how they are meant to work. BTW I didn't mean to imply nyloc's was a bad idea - just belt and braces.

[vince]

My 1965 indian army bullet has this facility on the front brake (like all early redditch models) which is how I can lock my halfwidth 6in brake. Like most of chennai thinking: Traffic to slow for good brakes so dont need that! Oil return relief valve? Ambient temp in India hot,oil always warm and thin so dont need that! All about saving production costs Trouble arise when you start exporting to cool temperate zones with fast traffic.
Incidently I was told many years ago by a factory rep that the crankpin fit was made looser than redditch so that roadside mechanics could repair with hammers and avoid use of a press. When we repaired original bullets we used a 2 ton press to get crankpin in, I had a chennai crank through the shop that you could assemble with you handgrip!

I digress, Ive never seem anything in any manual stating if the brake pivot bush holder should be locked or floating, I have always used latter with good results.

[BobF]

I have an Redditch Bullet Workshop Manual dated about 1955 where it states:-


“Note that the bolt holes in the cam housing are slotted, thus enabling the brake shoe assembly to be centered in the drum. It is not intended that on the rear brakes the cam housing should be left free to float but shoes should be centered by leaving the screws, 26309 and 35140, just short of dead tight. The brake cover assembly with the shoes should then be fitted over the spindle into the brake drum and the brake applied as hard as possible by means of the operating lever. This will centre the shoes on the drum. The screws should then be tightened dead tight and secured with the locknuts. If the shoes are not correctly centered the brake will be either ineffective or too fierce, depending on whether the trailing or leading shoe first makes contact with the drum. With the brake assembly correctly centered and the screws securing the cam housing correctly tightened wear on both linings should be approximately equal.”



The Pete Snidal CD manual also goes for the centred and locked-up option:-


“The bolt holes in the cover plate for locating the rear brake cam bush are slotted, to enable the brake shoe assembly to be centered in the drum. Before fitting the brake cover plate back into the drum, loosen the locknuts and the cam bush retainer mounting bolts. Then, fit the cover plate assembly with the new shoes over the spindle into the brake drum and apply the brake as hard as possible by means of applying torque to the operating lever - a large adjustable wrench on the end of the lever will be helpful. This will center the shoes in the drum. Then tighten the mounting bolts as much as possible, remove the cover plate assy., and complete tightening and replace the locknuts. This may also be done "retroactively" - when the machine is back together, if the brake centering is suspect, it can be done with the brake assembled as well.”



I have used both methods (on my 1992 Bullet) but am happier with the centered and locked-up one because it removes one area of lubrication and/or wear and makes for a more rigid assembly.

[Beezabryan]

Works for me too Bob

[papasmurf]

Just had a look at my Electra X (ish) other than the brake back plate being on the left had side, it has a plate between the pivot mount and the back plate with much smaller bolts than those in the video at the start of this thread.
I will need to strip it down and take a look as it looks as if the extra plate which the pivot is bolted to is free to swivel around the axis of the wheel spindle, with something I can't see restricting the amount of movement.

[Paulk]

Hi All, I don't want to turn this into a pre-load debate (for those that remember) but......" Then tighten the mounting bolts as much as possible" - the point I was trying to make is that with the brake assembled you can not tighten the mounting bolts because they are only accessible from the inside. The 1955 method works, but each why do all that then disassemble to make the final nip on the mounting bolts whereas if you leave the bush holder able to slide the brake will automatically centre each time you apply the brake irrespective on wear in the shoes etc. Oh well each to their own.