Forum

[stefaand]

Hi I've finally gotten the engine apart and cleaned it a bit: before after still some cleaning to do etc. I was checking the bearings and the drive hand side seems to resemble the tumbler I'm using to polish the rust of my nuts and bolts. Are there any tricks to getting the bearing out? Caution was advised, and I do not have the proper RE tools. I'm assuming I have to push the two bearing races out first before I can push out the ball bearing? Heat should be applied? Anything else I should be concerned with? The shop manual seems to think there's two ball bearings in there but there definitely aren't, and the Hitchcocks partslist doesn't show an exploded view. thanks!

[scotty]

I use a 2000 watt hot air gun my book says to heat up the alloy case then drop it joint side down from about 1 foot onto a block of wood this should jar the bearings out. You can use the wifes oven but make sure the case is ultra clean, bearings are stuffed anyway a 3/4 inch rod can be angled through to carefully drive ths first bearing out then you can drive the other one out with a socket, think there is a spacer between them.
When redoing them heat the cases again and freeze the bearings in a plastic bag overnight I use a socket or bit of wood slightly less than the od to drive them home think theres a circlip between then to.

[Mark M]

Stefaand, there was a change about 1955 from 2 ball bearings to 1 ball bearing (the outer one, nearest the primary chain,) and 1 roller bearing. You will need to get the cases super hot, I put them in an oven I keep in the garage for this purpose, and build up to maximum temperature (250 deg c) over about 20 minutes. There will probably be a lot of smoke! You will need to take your time getting the whole bearing assembly out as it's quite complicated. You will probably need to re-heat the cases between removing different components so take your time. As Scotty says there is a spacer and a circlip between the 2 bearings which if it is mucky in there (and it will be) may be difficult to see. You will need good internal circlip pliers. If you can't see the illustration in the Workshop Manual (it must be the Redditch one, Indians and later Bullets are different,) try looking at the Parts Book to work out what's going on so you know you've got all the components out. The composite seal on the drive side will probably burn up during extraction, by the way, but don't overlook the shims in there. Re-fitting is the reverse process, with frozen new bearings and re-heating between stages if needed. Just be patient and methodical and it's fine, I've done loads of them and the best approach is preparation and steady work.
Good luck,

REgards, Mark

[Nettshubby]

Hi Stefaand, this diagram might help. If you click on it, it will take you to my Photobucket page and original picture. There is a drawing of the drive and timing side bearings and fittings at the top of the drawing.

[Nettshubby]

This might be clearer!
Ray.

[Nettshubby]

These were taken from my Reditch Bullet manual which states that the drawings are of the 350 & 500 Bullets from 1956. I don`t know if there is any difference to a `55 Bullet. Maybe one of our esteemed members can tell you. If you need any other info from the manual, such as the bearings used, I can e mail them to you. let me know and I will post my e mail for you.
Ray.