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[Frank]

Something's going on beyond a worn cable. Perhaps the clutch hub nut is loose causing the hub to move on the gearbox shaft. Strip down required to see what is going on. I would be unhappy to rely on it until then.

[papasmurf]

Frank, I did 20 miles on the bike yesterday with no problems. The bike is in for its annual "birthday" in couple of weeks, any problems can be checked for during the service. (The motorcycle mechanic has a part time ancient assistant who is very expert when it comes old design bikes.)

[papasmurf]

Update the reason I could not see the arm is because it is behind the gearbox oil filler cap. Once I removed that after rummaging about to find an 18mm ring spanner to do so, and slackening the cable off, using my new bent nosed thin pliers, new cable now installed the gear box end and the set screw adjustment checked.
Tomorrow I will take the petrol tank off to route the new cable to the clutch lever and "double up" on it, as well as going the same with the throttle and valve, lifter cables.

[papasmurf]

Oh deep joy, (not.) Doubled up on the clutch, valve lifter and throttle cables, to make life easier for roadside breakage. Lost the will to live trying sort out the neutral light, during the course of which I have ended up with no spark. Fortunately a bit of a clue is the rev counter is not showing 15 revs on he way up to TDC so I suspect in the course of my rummaging around with the neutral light wiring I have pulled the connector block to the coil apart.
(Revise list of tools in the other thread to be carried on the bike.)

[papasmurf]

Yet another update, tank off, seat off, check all the electrical connection, try and change neutral light sender, gave up on that, it needs a special spanner, (or one ground to fit.)

Put everything back together the neutral light now works, and the engine started and ticked over first touch of the starter button. (And some people wonder why machines are referred to as She.)
I still have no idea what the problems were.

[Omit]

Interesting read having just snapped cable after 2200KM Indian Thunderbird 350 (2003) Activating Arm end - Found out about modified arm (Thks to Hitchcocks) and subsequently ordered modified activating arm, duly removed original and fitted all straight forward. Went to replace and route new clutch cable (same length as original) but English nylon lined BUT can't get cable to take up slack - Am I mis-routing? Very frustrating! - I am obviously missing a trick here, thought would be so straight forward! Your wisdom would be very much appreciated.

[Frank]

I didn't have any problems fitting the modified arm to my 5speed box but I bought the kit which included the arm, cable and gearbox outer cover. The new cable is different from the old and has a bent metal tube about 5 inches long which goes into the gearbox cover and has an adjuster on the top of the tube. Perhaps the cable inner is slightly shorter to make up for the swivel in the actuating arm. Although the cover is supposed to be drilled at a different angle to the original to be honest I couldn't see any difference. Perhaps you need the cable part number 550519.

[Frank]

I didn't have any problems fitting the modified arm to my 5speed box but I bought the kit which included the arm, cable and gearbox outer cover. The new cable is different from the old and has a bent metal tube about 5 inches long which goes into the gearbox cover and has an adjuster on the top of the tube. Perhaps the cable inner is slightly shorter to make up for the swivel in the actuating arm. Although the cover is supposed to be drilled at a different angle to the original to be honest I couldn't see any difference. Perhaps you need the cable part number 550519.

[Omit]

Thanks Frank - Apparently I need to adjust the arm

[Omit]

Once I had been advised to remove 5 Speed Cap and Gasket on casing, to allow access to adjust the actuating arm, ALL GOOD. Cable nicely adjusted now and clutch operating as it should - Easy when you know how (Fingers crossed)