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By Jack the Lad
#46376
Thack said - "It's a stupid system - it ought to work like every Japanese bike". Be careful what you wish for - if it worked like every Japanese bike these days it will be at least £200 extra for the centrestand if you can get one. Mine (2010 G5) definitely doesn't crank with the sidestand down, I often put it on the sidestand before I put it on the centrestand and only realise I've left the sidestand down when I try to start the engine and nothing happens.
By Thack
#46379
Jack wrote: "Mine (2010 G5) definitely doesn't crank with the sidestand down"



Thanks for clarifying that. I am happy to admit that I was wrong about your bike. I assumed it would be the same as mine, and as Scaly's wiring diagram. So, we know for sure that we have two different variants of the wiring, with no obvious pattern as to why, or which models.



I've no idea why that should be so, but I'm glad we've learned about it. :-)
By papasmurf
#46380
Thack on my bike the wiring loom bears no resemblance to the one in the workshop manual at all. (Nor does the position of some of the electrical components.)
By Mog
#46392
Yes Thack I am in the UK and although my bike was first registered in May 2011 looking at the chassis number it was manufactured late 2010. As mine is a Clubman I wonder if Watsonion altered the wiring though I can't think of any logical reason why they would do so.
By Jack the Lad
#46526
Hi again all. I've only just had a chance to put your very helpful advice to the test, with fairly positive results - So when I bridge terminals 30 and 87 in the lower of the two relays, the fuel pump whirrs and the engine will start. However, I can then only stop it if I pull the bridge wire out - the ignition switch, stop switch and sidestand cut-out all have no effect. The relay I bridged has all 5 pins wired up and the two terminals I bridge have red wires. The other relay under the side cover is an identical component, but only has 4 of the pins wired up and no red wires at all, I assume this is the side stand switch relay. As an experiment I swapped the two relays over as it would be fair to assume that the chances they would both fail would be fairly low. The fault remains if I do that, but again if I bridge the lower of the two relays, the engine will start. That suggests to me that although the fault is related to the fuel pump relay, the fault is not in the relay itself. Before I waste money buying a new relay that I don't need, would it be right to assume that the fault is likely to be in the power supply to the relay? All the fuses are intact and everything else is working. Is there a way that I can check that without stripping all the casing of the wires to trace an individual wire through all the connectors. If the power relay is working OK (as I guess it it must be) could the fault only be in the wire from the power relay to the fuel pump relay. I've got a 12v circuit tester but no other electrical test equipment. My other question is that if I wire a manual kill switch into the wire I use to bridge the 5 pin relay would it be OK to ride the bike like that, so I could get it to a dealer with the right equipment to check the electrics over? Any advice would be much appreciated.
By Jack the Lad
#46530
Hurray - Found the problem! My first proper success in sorting out an electrical issue, so I'm dead chuffed. Contrary to the gibberish I put in my last post, I think it was actually the power relay I was bypassing not the fuel pump relay, but that didn't affect the source of the problem. I started stripping the 'proetctive' covering for the wires back, working from the relay backwards, and after only 3 inches (I thought it was more but my wife insists it is only 3...) I found a complete break in one of the paired brown wires where it has chafed through. When I joined the ends together, hey presto everything works! Now to go and effect a permanent repair...and I'll be riding again now the nice weather is back. Yippee.
By Michael
#46532
Great stuff Jack! Buy a couple of relays from maplins or an auto factors as spares, and find out what caused the wire to chafe.
By Thack
#46533
Cracking bit of work there, Jack! Faults like this can be a bit of a bastard to find.



As Michael says, finding out why it chafed is a priority.
By MartinB
#46591
Glad my original post has generated such interest!I have been a naughty boy and not yet investigated my electric start problem but i will...hopefully soon.It's not urgent as i can get the bike running on the kicker-usually first or second kick and then it always runs fine.(Famous last words-hope i don't get stranded at work today now i've said that!)

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