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[Norm]

Spence when you find a suitable clutch perch and lever let us know, I know the older Hondas and BMW's have 30mm centers but usually the lever setup is big and bulky but at least they work

[Norm]

And the other issue is the fact that the Indian lever has a dogleg in it so it comes back and hits the handelbar too early reducing the cable travel. Look at the British levers and they have no dogleg in them for this very reason

[papasmurf]

Norm I have just done a rough measurement on my Electra X (ish) clutch lever pivot to cable 30mm. The BMW K75S pivot to cable is 40mm so the BMW pulls far more length of cable.
I may be exploring this further.

[mauri]

outer case strengthener.



warped plates.



clutch cable on its way out.



clutch not attach fully.



loose main shaft nut.



better quality levers.



and so on……..

these will influence the clutch workings, cork won’t help when its a mechanical issue.

[papasmurf]

Mauri, you left out checking the plates actually clear with the clutch pulled and, checking the clearance is even if they do.

[Norm]

Papa talking about a completely different animal, 5 speed uses the 3 ball design, 4 speed uses an arm arangement. Clutch stiffener will help gain probably half amm, but every bit helps. The whole secret is to get the plates to separate and this can only be achieved with enough cable travel. Start with the cable end/lever touching the outer cover disc, I find to achieve this using an Indian cable is to lengthen the inner by about 15mm, then adjust the rod adjuster till it touches then back it off a fraction. This is where the 30mm on the perch becomes important because it allows you an ectra 3/4mm of cable travel. Problem is with the standard lever set up, you get 17mm of travel at the lever. For ever 3mm of travel there you get .4mm of clutch rod travel, minus flex and cable stretch, do the maths you get at max about 2.5mm of lift and it just isn't enough to seperate the plates. Here endeth the lesson, I have been fighting these clutches for years

[simon]

Norm your problem was a slipping clutch as far as I remember. I have found the cork clutch plates to be an absolute cure for my 350 Bullet clutch. My reasoning for trying them was simple. The clutch is basically identical to the early 50's ones which had cork plates. The only mods they made after 56 involved the actuation of the clutch with the in cover mechanism. As far as I can see the Brits put cork plates in until the end. The modern ferrodo type plates were as far as I can see an Indian mod. What alerted me to the issue was a G80 Matchless a mate had which had modern lined plates in and was almost unusable as it was basically an on and off switch. He replaced them with the old fashioned push through cork plates and the problem was solved. I could stomach the concept that an otherwise entirely satisfactorily designed machine could have such a giant flaw and have been so successful. The case flex was clearly a manufacturing fault which I largely cured with my small invention but the plates still didn't clear properly even when all the adjustment was taken up on the cable. Also I always found that the clutch bit at the last second of engagement even when I tried to ride it. My 51 Bullets clutch had been perfect so I decided to try the bonded cork plates that Mr H has for sale. They it turned out were significantly thinner that the originals and so there was consequently more adjustment available. Not a lot more but enough. I can now adjust the clutch so it clears and doesn't slip. Because it clears it doesn't get hot and because it doesn't get hot it stays the same from the beginning to the end of the ride. The clutch also now engages without a snatch at the end. My theory is that the old fashioned design of clutch basket isn't ridged enough for modern plates and so flexes with the plates take up resulting in the lurch. I posted a video of my bike being clipped in and out of gear without any interference. This was probably close to a year back now. Whilst I've had all sorts of other issues (mostly my own fault) with oil pumps and seizing the clutch has remained a total success.

[PeteF]

My 350 engages and disengages neutral perfectly.
Sorry but it just does!
The most important thing, I found, was to get rid of the flex on the outer gearbox cover. After that careful adjustment has it perfect.

[papasmurf]

Norm "I have been fighting these clutches for years."

That does not surprise me at all Norm. But is does seem obvious to me now after your earlier contributions that fitting a lever assembly which pulls more cable is worth a try and a trip around a bike breakers yard could make it a cheap try with two chances, it will either solve the problem or it won't, and won't have cost much.

[simon]

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/fo ... post_79858 Here is the link of my previous post. Neutral is as easy to find as this after 100 miles of hard riding.