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By Leon Novello
#45140
Most engines need to be run for at least thirty minutes on a ride to get to running temperature. Parking the bike outside in the Sun should evaporate any water in the petrol.
By Michael
#45142
Ha! Sun! In Paisley??? That won't happen. My ride is 45 mins normally do it should (and is) hot by the end. The fact it runs well makes me think the O2 sensor is working. Must be an air leak surely? Can you draw air through a leaky head gasket perhaps?
By Michael
#45170
No air leaks - or at least I can't find any!! So, next question for those who understand fuel injection systems well... Would the position of the MAP sensor matter/potentially cause problems? It can be rotated if the clamp is loosened...
By Frank
#45178
Modern fuel degrades over time causing rich running particularly when cold. Recommended storage time is a max of 3 months unless in a well sealed container. I would drain the tank and fill with fresh.
By Norm
#45180
It is a sensor, because it is only relevant to cold running and I'm sure Trevor CH had 2 UCE's that did it so he bought a Triumph and we don't hear from him anymore
By Michael
#45982
Right... an update :) Firstly a huge thanks to Hitchcocks (particularly Wayne) who took my ECU in by post for testing. It has shown up 4 faults: oil temp sensor fault, injector fault, fuel pump fault and crank position sensor fault. Now here is the thing...




When checking various things on the bike I plugged and unplugged certain things to check for continuity and voltage etc. I know I definitely unplugged the engine temp sensor to check for voltage - I suspect this might have stored that fault. I am fairly certain I also did the same with the injector and fuel pump to 'test' for the diagnostic light working, hence storing those faults. I definitely haven't unplugged the CPS. However, here is my thinking...




The bike runs rubbish when cold, and better when warm. I would suspect this means the temp sensor IS doing its job unless it is 'stuck' on warm... any ideas how to test these sensors? I suspect the injector IS working fine becuase the bike runs quite well at higher engine speeds (when there is more demand on fuel delivery) and not so well at low speeds. Does this make sense? I know injectors can be cleaned... Ditto the fuel pump - runs fine at high engine speed, not so well at low speed so this makes me think fuel delivery is fine. This leads to the CPS - presumably the CPS advances or retards ignition dependent on various factors. I don't claim to know what these factors are... but I assume temperature is one? Engine speed being another? Could it be that the CPS is the real 'fault' here? How to test one of these? In fact, how to test all of these things? Any ideas would be great :)




Not put everything back together yet, but the folks at Hitchcocks tell me that clearing the ECU of faults can reset its memory somewhat and often results in improved running, especially if there were no 'real' faults to begin with. will stick things back together in the next week or so and see how things go. Firstly I have a fuel tank to paint... well, the damaged underside bits anyway :)
By Gwilly
#46005
Mike i do hope its not the fuel pump.... lots of £££££

Makes a sensor look cheap by comparison.. all sooted up again?
By Thack
#46006
Michael writes: "Not put everything back together yet, but the folks at Hitchcocks tell me that clearing the ECU of faults can reset its memory somewhat and often results in improved running..."



Does anyone know how to clear the ECU of the fault records? I've checked the manual and can't find it.
By Michael
#46013
Thack, I believe that clearing the ECU of faults requires the relevant diagnostic tool and software (which Hitchcocks have). It's a non-volatile memory in the ECU, so unplugging it does nothing.




Interestingly, I found a few adverts for places that test and clean injectors by mail order. They are all around 15 GBP so I guess this would represent a cheap way to rule out (or not!) the injector. No idea how to test the other components though :(
By Michael
#46527
So, another update. Got my injector back last week with a diagnostic sheet. Spray pattern was 'fair' and is now 'good'. Flow rate was 250cc and now 260. Slight improvements but the chap suggested that the injector probably isn't the source of my trouble given those figures. Either way, a tenner well spent. An Enfield dealer I stumbled across suggested to check MAP sensor and exhaust gasket. So I have... Gasket had blown a wee hole so a clean out and new one ordered... MAP sensor seemed well seated. So I thoroughly cleaned its seat and found an o-ring. Now, the seal was in the right place but I hadn't noticed it before so it may well have been badly seated. It is in properly now. So... bits ordered. Arrive on Wednesday - we will see from there. Should I seat the exhaust gasket with a wee bit silicone on both sides or just insert as is?
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