This Forum is now CLOSED use the link to get more details viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13924#p102587
By Ivor
#43410
Thanks for the ideas. I will try removing studs first, simply because I have no rope in shed.
Will let you know what works.
By Ivor
#43450
Ok, so I`ve removed the studs(2 on the sides) found about 5 foot of rope and put that in but no luck. Bally head is stuck fast. Perhaps I need more rope, it must compress quite a bit. Will get some this week and try again.
By Norm
#43454
Ivor, remove all the studs, there is a chance you may damage some, but if you don't and you continue trying to force it up there is a chance you can break the little stud out of the alloy above the tappet door. If you remove the nut the barrel and head should lift up together and what I can't remember is if you can lift the barrel and head off in one piece. I have been in this situation befor but can't remember what I ended up doing, probably had to pull the motor out to get it apart. Be very careful with this tappet door stud, break that and you are in big trouble
By ChrisD
#43468
Ivor,
I found no success with the rope trick.
The head on my 1996 Classic, even with Mr H’s hardened washer set, kept jamming. So once the head was finally off, I drilled the 4 critical recesses ~0.5mm wider diameter and installed larger hardened washers with a 0.5mm larger diameter hole. That makes it all easier, but I still have to tap the head up on one side then the other, inserting thin spacers of plywood between head and barrel until the head is some 10mm off the barrel - then I can pull the head off.
I think the holes drilled in the head don’t fully line up with the barrel/crankcase so there’s no easy solution.
I’ve seen a video from India where they force the head off with halves of pickaxe handles inserted in the inlet and the exhaust ports – that explains a lot.
Persevere and it will come off – just use alloy to beat the head off not steel (an old alloy bicycle crank is long enough)
ChrisD
By mauri
#43636
get 4 M14 bolt that are long enough.



thread the 4 holes with the same M14 threat.

gradually put the studs under tension in a cross pattern.



head should come of quit easily.

By Norm
#43639
Mauri, can you give a bit more info please, where do these M14 studs go
User avatar
By PeteF
#43649
If you have all the studs out then the head is truly stuck to the barrel. Unusual. Perhaps some hardwood wedges would help ( on the joint, not the fins)
By mauri
#43655
his is the place to tread with M14X2.



Image


i used M15X1,5, but the bolts are hard to find.

you’l probably have to get them made.



i used this method only once,not only the washer where deformed but instead of using a non hardening paste on the gasket a permanent paste was used also.

only with heat and this method a got the two apart.



the rest of the time i just use a hard wooden blok(60X60mm) with the end shaped to the under side of the head, depending on the angle i hit and to spread the force applied.

i only hit the head carb and exhaust spot, where the most material is.
By Ivor
#43658
Well, thanks everyone for all your advice. Taking all the studs out would no doubt help but I cant see how I would achieve this as the other 4 are all in a deep recess. I like the idea from Lone Wolf and the one from Mauri, will try one of these methods I think. Norm, thanks for the tip about the little stud above the tappet door. Will be more careful with it. I don't get much shed time in the week but will have a go at the weekend. Will let you know when I have succeeded and what worked.

Shop for accessories at Hitchcocks Motorcycles