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By Martin
#4509
Since the saga of my '50 twin's oil return wasn't resolved,
am now dismantling same and commencing again with a set of
'56 crankcases. Usual chore of transfering everything over.
Tonight was initially stymied with removing the tappet guides
from the earlier 'cases, and before I maul something, was
wondering if merely heating the 'cases around a tappet guide,
one could twist them out with waterpump pliers grasped beneath
the 11/16" X 26 TPI external threads they have. Or do I have
to fabricate a makeshift extractor with rare 11/16 X 26 TPI nuts
which will be an adventure finding. (Unless something on the
frame is that very thread I have.t discovered yet, Tahanxs, lads
By Barnes
#42588
Hi gordon. The manual for the sm says you can heat them and using a pry bar from the cam tunnel gently prise them out. I have tried this several times but with no luck. And i think you risk cracking the guide by doing this anyway. I usually heat the crank case half in the oven and then using the special tool that our hosts have for hire i extract them. I think tool hire is about £10 plus postage. It saves alot of hassle and pulls the guides out squarely ready for re-use. Ed
By Martin
#42593
Similiar advice offered in my manual too, Eddie, Sure am
grateful you told me the futility of that route before I
got carried away. Will be patient and query Mr H on renting
that tool when compiling a upcoming parts order, despite
the guides having been installed with lube relatively
recently in the earlier c/cases. Thanks, indeed, Ed.
By Norm
#42594
Gordon you are a brave man treading this path, you are mixing Meteror parts into a Super Meteor motor and I'm not sure how everything will fit. In theory the crank and barrels should fit but until you try it is only guess work. I assume you have a 56 timing cover? I wish you good luck
By Tim NZ
#42596
The tappet guides are made from chilled cast-iron and are incredibly brittle.
Unless they are loose, you will need to get the cases SUPER hot, and preferably have the extractor...
While you are in the cases, reroute the inlet-cam oil return directly back to the oil tank, ala Interceptor.
And if you are able to block off the oil feeds from the cam tunnels through to the bottom of the barrels, (not required) you will go a long way to easing the overloading of the oil-return from out of the sump.
Less oil will be carried out the breather.

Tim NZ

By Martin
#42597
Norm, hopefully have studied the later c/cases sufficently
to unravel the oilway labyrinth. Motor allegelly is a late '55
Tomahawk acccording to the 5T4201 engine no. REOC aays is that
year or so. The orange '55/'56 parts book shows it accurately.
Have drilled and tapped the magdyno ledge for the earlier
generator's cradle etc. and tapped the drive side c/case for
the different chain case stud's new position, the latter
a comprimise. Was well aware of the latter timing cover from
the Pitman manual I have, happily it is in nice shape for
the later gaskets needed. Crankshaft was the later alternator
one w/ big end shells which I think are cooked from the
previous dodgy oil circulation fiasco. Thanks , Norm, regardless.
By Martin
#42598
Tim, am grareful for your timely input particually warning
me how fragile the guides are, and as Eddie mentioned the
preferable use of an extractor. Just as well before I went
ape with a hammer and unsuitable punch in my impatience.
Had several guides from this basket case that were loose,
but discarded them as they locked solid with rust. Your tip(s)
re diverting the cam oil ways I will study in next day or two
when I go over the garage, and could post a dumb question for
you later if I need this clarifying. Tim, thank you for putting
pen to paper, as the breathing had been an issue too
By Martin
#42601
Norm, the cases should be more accurately described as
being '55, although the orange parts book are titled

1855/1956. The oil filter is parellel to the crankshaft
ie tucked under the oil filler. Just read Steve Wilson's
description of the '56 engine changes, little wonder you
were dismayed at my mixing parts between two different animals
By Barnes
#42602
Hi tim. I have my 1960 cases apart at the min just reading your comments about diverting the cam return back to sump. Does this not reduce the amount of oil available to the scavenge pump thus causing premature wear to it? If this isnt the case do you drill through at the bottom of the tunnel or slightly raised. I have to get one of my tappet guide holes metal sprayed in the new year as the guide is loose and rattling. Ed

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