Forum

[Yorkie]

Retro, the metal plug cap is a restor type,so the plug recommended by our 'HOSTS'BP6ESwil be correct

Hope this helps

Safe Riding

YORKIE

[Thack]

Thanks, papasmurf. Yorkie says it's a resistor cap, so I should be using a BP6ES, whereas I've actually got a BPR6ES in it. So, Retro, I can assure you that a BPR6ES works fine, even if it's theoretically wrong!

[Leon Novello]

This information will be in the Owner`s Handbook and Workshop Manual, it`s handy to have one or the other.

[Norm]

Just rip the metal cap off, it looks dorky anyway and doesn't do anything

[Beezabryan]

Seemingly it ain't broke so why the haste in mending it?
But if you must then why not just replace like for like, it worked before it will work again

[Thack]

Now come on, BeezaBryan! You should know that the rules for owning an Enfield include "If it ain't broke, keep fixing it until it is."

[Beezabryan]

Rules Thack? Rules are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men

[Thack]

LOL! Well, there's plenty of people here who think me a fool!

[oldjohn1951]

Spark plugs are not created equal. Each manufacturer has its own set of specs. I have had very good luck with Champion spark plugs. I suggest you replace the NGK plug with a new, properly gapped Champion N3C. The thread and reach are identical to your NGK plug. I have used this same plug in my BSA and Triumph from the 1970s and I use another Champion plug today in my Honda. I have no complaints. Also, because of the heat generated at the top end, I give the spark plug thread a coat of the silver anti-seize lubricant. Hope this helps.

[Leon Novello]

Oldjohn is giving good advice, the threads should have a smear of anti-seize on them. Steel and aluminium create an electrolysis causing corrosion. Ask anyone who tried to remove a seized plug and ripped the thread out of the cylinder head.