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By Michael
#41962
Having owned a RE EFI for a number of years now, and having managed this exact problem for a number of years too, I can safely say that they do 'all do that'... However, the situation can be improved. I don't know what type of plug I have but I do know it is a twin electrode plug which comes with our hosts 'EFI Service Kit' 90037. The plug really matters as a good one, i.e. the right one for your machine, will vastly reduce the conking out.




There are other factors though. I don't think the bike gets a good draw of air when stationary, and this may affect the idling. Yeah, sure, it does draw air but I am not convinced that air flow is not restricted greatly when stationary. A clearn air filter really helps. The oil/crank breather dumps oil mist into the air box, so it can fill up with grime pretty quickly so keep it clean and check reasonably regularly (I check a couple of times a year, but always check when I have poor running too).




The right fuel also definitely helps (i.e. super/premium unleaded 98 octane!). Since I switched to super the bike engine runs more smoothly at tickover and is just generally better.




Other things which caused the conk outs for me did inlcude a sticky sprag (and starting using the electric start after a conk out eventually contributed to the absolute death of my sprag). Once I removed the sprag entirely the conk outs reduced drastically. Similarly the enrichment device thingy (which Thack identified was an air inlet device which tricked the ECU into fueling more)... it sticks open from time to time causing rich running (even though the lever returns!). Wiggle it, it might help. Your sooty plug suggests it could be a bit sticky on your bike though?




Plus... it conks out more on cold days... it conks out more when you are at lights too... I think the cold is a more realistic explanation than the lights, but perhaps these bikes have eyes and a real brain and know that lights are the perfect place to leave you stuck :)




Start with a new plug and work from there...
By Jim
#41965
I've had two now and they both do it. Tickover gets slower until it eventually stalls. Justs needs a quick blip every now and again to sort it.
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By Scalyback
#41967


Thack, It's got a BPR6ES in it! It's them first two plug pics.



It does say made in France, so maybe I should just try another in case there is a problem with it?



Personally, I think there is a Computer problem. The whole engine dies, and not just missing one beat, but not firing until the engine stops.



No wonder some guys are exchanging the EFI system for a carb.



OH I JUST REMEMBERED... I was running about 35-40MPH earlier ithat day, and accelerating lightly, when it missed a few cycles in a row. Just enough to drop the power for a split second, then recovered. I did not change the throttle position during any of this.
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By Chris [Stockport]
#41968
Is there possibly an electrical thing going on here? I'm investigating this with my own bike at the moment.... When you stop and the brake light comes on does that alter electrical power a bit? Hope someone knows and tells us it isn't???
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By Scalyback
#41969

Thanks Michael, I'm really going to have to look at the air filter as I have never though to look at it since i got Thunderbolt!.




Maybe the fuel thing ios sticking, but I rarely use it, and never use the electric start! I guess I will just have to get used to it?, er, which double electrode plug by the way?

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By Scalyback
#41971

Chris, I have no idea, but my brake tail light is LED, so not a major power user.



I'm really stuffed on this one... It just stop firing for a number of cycles. If riding then the momentum keeps us running until he picks up again, but if idling... then just stops.
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By Chris [Stockport]
#41974
OK can see your point on that... really don't know, but quite a while ago I had this with the brake light, not because of the bulb, but the switch was faulty and when the footbrake was applied it connected the live part to earth. That really did stop it working! .... just a thought, Good luck, Chris
By Thack
#41978
Scaly: sorry, I didn't realise you had a BPR6ES. I got confused when someone mentioned the BPR9ES, which is a long way from the correct temperature range for our bike.



Like you, I suspect some kind of electrical glitch. When I heard your video I, also, noticed that it seems to cut out completely. This is NOT the usual crappy idle shenanigans UCEs have suffered from since they were introduced.

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