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[Scalyback]

[center]



Sometimes my EFI just cuts out on tickover. In first, clutch in, waiting at a junction. Any suggestions.

[JohnL]

"They all do that sir!" )

Seriously, though, how may miles is on the bike? If it's new and you're still running it in, the engine's are very tight, so it's quite common to experience the engine cutting out while idling.

My GT did this a lot when new, but is gradually getting better as the miles increase. I'm up to 1300 miles now, and although it still cuts out occasionally, it's nowhere near as bad as when the bike was new.

Some try raising the tickover, but I just held the throttle slightly open to avoid it happening too much.

John

[PeteF]

Yes, possibly the tickover a bit low. As it's an EFI, if the computer thinks the revs are too low it will shut the engine down.

[Scalyback]

[center]


Thanks John L, but I think I might not have helped with the oil I put in at last change. And so to...


Running in, correct oils, spending a (multiply)-load.



Am I using the correct oil, only the bike shop said it was very good quality, only it cost about 70 bloody quid! Think I am giving Thunderbolt, top of the line racing blood. I think it has stopped the running in procedure as well (too slippy). HELP! What should I be using?









This is Thunderbolt's (supposed) mileage. It's what I work with.




Anyway, after just dying (Not stalling) at a roundabout, I did stop to check the tick-over, but as usual, when standing to one side of the bike when it knows you can give it a damn good kick, it behaved perfectly! (Not that I would, but it don't know that!)




Royal Enfield EFI Adjusting tickover speed by Scaleyback's showstoppers

[sofiaspin]

I would suggest you give the bike a long hard run, accelerating hard to overtake, motorway speeds, clear it all out by getting everything hot. Mine did that initially, and stuttered as well within first three miles or so from start up. Now with 4500 on the clock it is fine. Ride it hard. Too many mature riders treat these bikes as if they are classics.

[Thack]

PeteF: I don't know where you got that idea from, but it isn't true. The ECU doesn't cut the engine when it "thinks" it's running too slow. I know two ways. Firstly, I've experimented with it, slowing it right down to see how slow it would go. Secondly, how could it start in the first place? Cranking speed is much slower than even the slowest idle.



Scaly: This is very odd. My bike used to stop too often when it was new, but not like yours. Mine would idle slower and slower, and then stop. Yours was idling at what sounded like the correct speed, and cut out quite suddenly. I don't think it has anything to do with it being too tight.



The only thought I have is if you've fitted an NGK plug yet? The misbehaving idle and stalling was almost completely cured on mine just by taking out the original and changing it for a BPR6ES. Bizarre, really - after all, Bosch are good plugs. But the NGK cured almost all the idle-speed shenanigans on mine.

[Michael]

As Thack says... try a different plug. Alternatively, it could be a catchy sprag, dodgy lectrics, bunged up air filter or a small hamster living in your inlet manifold

[Les]

Sounded to me like something caused the engine to cut out rather than a tick over issue my vote would also be to try a new spark plug before getting to technical

[Scalyback]

I am running a NGK BPR6ES which has been in about a year now (2000 miles), pics below...








Looks a bit sooty, and I did just get back from that trip to the railway, so it was quite hard, got up to 75MPH for a short stretch, but usually at 60-65 where possible.



This time last year I had a BR9ES which the bike came with... It looks rather healthier? Should I change it back?

[Scalyback]

Sorry, I meant...



"A BR9ES which the mechanic gave me, telling me to junk the bosch one."