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[zippy]

Yes Norm, but you forgot the grease seal after the bearing. Otherwise same as I have on mine and same as in the workshop manual.The outer distance piece is available on here as part of a stainless spindle kit or as a single part.

[Norm]

Zippy a grease seal is exactly that a grease seal,it has nothing to do with the clamping effect that is required to lock the bearings up unless it has one of those rubbish felt seal setups that have washers either side of the felt and then these washers become part of the distance piece

[Norm]

Zippy you want real problems with wheels have a play with AJS/ Matchless ones and you will realize the Enfield wheels are so easy even the non QD rear isn't too bad

[zippy]

Hi Norm, I mentioned the grease seal for the OP's benefit, since he mentions it in the 2nd part of his post. I didn't want him to think "no seal". I know it has nothing to do with the clamping up of bearings and spacers. As for "real problems with wheels", I'll give AJS/matchless the miss. - I've had more than my fair share of problems restoring/riding old brits and others over the last 35 years. Many have been caused by so called professional wheel builders, others by poorly made components. So since the early '90s I've rebuilt my own wheels, from the best components I can find/make. My first set (16 stainless specials for an R80 powered Ural outfit, with 2" wider yokes to match) are still going strong, after 20 odd years. My latest are my Enfield/Norton hybrid wheels, fitted to my 50s bullet.

[p]

Well, it has been solved today! Squeal was nothing more than one of the shoe springs "kissing" the inner boss of sprocket/drum, I guess the spring was distorted at some time in the past. And, yes, the parts go in the order that several of you said: bearing,(then seal) tubular spacer,backplate,washer,fork of swinging arm,snail cam, nut. Be aware that the parts book diagram is misleading as it transposes two parts.Thanks for input folks.