Forum

[Alan R]

Hi guys---------and thanks JOE for that open and informative reply......Yep, as NORM says----as the flywheels have moved and there is also piston remnants in the sump, then it's an engine out followed by a full strip, wash, inspect etc. with the crank being set-up and trued...........Sorry matey, there's no quick-fix for this scenario..................A bit of good news for you}---- the engine can be removed on its' own leaving the gearbox still in the frame....and with the head/barell already off you're halfway there !!!

[Widows Son]

Well, better to do it right now then have to re-do it later. I'm off this weekend so I'll pull the motor down.
A few questions...how exactly do I keep the gearbox in the frame? Seems like it will be damn hard to unbolt it.

Also, will this require new bearings in the cases? Will this require a new roller bearing big end? Will it need a new conrod? Or can I re-use them? They only have 13,500 klm on them?

Regards,
Joe

[Norm]

Joe,
easier to lift the whole thing out in one piece, it doesn't take long, crossover bolt above the gearbox, bolt through the bottom plate through the motor and loosen the gearbox pinch bolt, only leaves the front engine mount bolt. One thing I do when I get the motor out is with a grinder cut the inside of the front downtube off at a 45 degree angle so the engine cases clear the tube easier. It will always be a gamble on your bearings but as the metal bits from the piston is quite small and not a lot, only from around the gudgeon pin, I would take a chance that you could be ok,up to you. As I said you will have some uneven wear on the big and small ends because they have been pushing sideways but I would also be prepared to chance that as well, no guarantees but worth a chance, worst it can do is fail again down the track. Remember it is an Enfield and there is never any guarantee with them, every day they run you must view as a bonus. Strip it down, clean everything, get the crank trued up, put it back together. Not sure what you can do about the scored bore, not sure if you can get an O/S 535 piston

[Widows Son]

Thanks Norm, I appreciate your help. As my bike is a 5 speed I will have to open the gearbox cover to get the shifter rod out of the cases.

I already ordered a o/s 535 from our Host and a machinist lined up to recut it. I might as well bring him the crank to check at the same time.

[Leon Novello]

Hi Joe: Norm`s posts used to make me nervous, after reading yours I`m reaching for the whisky bottle.

[Norm]

Leon,
This goes back to when the motor originally failed, I was concerned then that the crank was not going to be done correctly and down the road we know what happened

[Widows Son]

I'm taking the parts to a different shop this time.

Its been a couple years since I last did this, but when it comes times to unbolt and seperate the case halves, is anything attached to the shafts like washers or bearing races? I seem to recall that stripping the engine down didn't take too much time but putting it back together did.

[Alan R]

Hi NORM---------- could you post a photo or sketch re}--- 45 degree angle on downtube ??........... I'm due to remove a 4-speed assy. for a new big end and any extra help is always appreciated......I think I know what you mean but some visual confirmation would help........Cheers.

[Norm]

Hi Alan, can't do pics or sketches but I cut them at about 45 degrees or what looks like a good angle to hold the grinder probably an inch up from the bottom of the tube and just hack the corner off. Bit of black spray and nobody ever knows. Just allows that extra clearance for the cases to get through. Some frames are easier to get the motor in and out because as we know no 2 frames are the same. Sometimes I need somebody to just pull on the front wheel to flex the backbone open just a little bit