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By PeteF
#35394
Ah, right! Couldn't remember who it was.
By Mark M
#35397
Just to say, our Hosts offer a 5 (friction) plate conversion for the 4 plate clutch, I don't see why using this kit with 4 plates in an original 3 plater wouldn't help? The 5 plate kit works well on my Meteor so...REgards Mark
By simon
#35399
Yes cover flex is sorted. With a cork clutch I'd go back to straight mineral oil on first thought although I imagine ATF would also be ok.
By JTL
#35415
Leon, do you have a link for the silicon nitrate ceramic ball? I have heard about it before, but never been able to source them... Jacob
By JTL
#35504
Hi Leon Thanks .. maybe ebay is the place to get ceramic balls here in Denmark. The kind of shops you are mentioning is not very common around where I'm living. I noticed the zirconia balls on the australian web site, but from just the description of the two different kinds I can't figure out the technical difference. Getting the right size may be the most important point. Or maybe our host should take up selling ceramic balls as an altenative to steel balls?... Jacob
By another Allan
#35508
I may be missing the point, but is there really such a high risk of heat transfer using a steel ball bearing which is only in point contact with each end of the push-rod?
By JTL
#35518
Hi Allan... I guess you are not missing anything here. I'm just trying to find out if there is a difference. I believe there is, but only facts will tell for sure. So I'm trying to find out facts. Mostly because I'm curious about different materials, but also because I want to know if it will make a difference with, in this case, a ceramic ball instead of a stell ball... Simon, sorry for hijacking your thread; hope we will all learn something about ceramic balls... Jacob
By simon
#35519
I too struggle to see the advantage as whilst ceramic is an excellent isolator of electrical current as far as heat is concerned and particularly in this application it really can't have that much effect. The clutch rod is surrounded by steel and that by aluminium so that on anything other than a very quick stop start the whole motor is going to warm up fairly evenly from the combustion chamber out. No worries on the Hijack as it's the discussion where ever it goes that spins my wheels. s:)
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By Leon Novello
#35521
Let me stress again; this problem only happens in very heavy stop-start traffic conditions (not when cruising in the countryside where gear changes are not needed) where the rider gets caught out finding neutral and has to hold in the clutch lever until the traffic moves again, then stops, then goes, etc, etc, etc, in very hot conditions. I have experienced this on my Bullet, when I got home there was over half an inch of slack at the lever and next day play was back to normal. I am not the only one who has had this problem.
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