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[trevorch]

Slot head screw is vertical on the right side. I could reach mine without removing the saddle. A fraction of a turn should be enough with a warm engine. In 8,000km my bike never cut once and the plug was never changed or even checked. Keep it simple. Cheers Trevorch

[Alan R]

Hi guys---------- have a look at this >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-SUrx_L66E ----------------- Isn't that the same NGK plug used in the "Iron engines" though ??

[Alan R]

--------Just realised that the letters "n" and "g" are missing from the main title !! LoL !!

[Gwilly]

Hi Dean, If its an absolute brand new motor you may find that things improve a bit with a 1000 miles on it.. Bed in and loosen up a bit..

Then oil change and tune up...

[jefrs]

I know this is a bit of an old post but a tip to anyone adjusting the bypass, that flat head screw is not inaccessible - slacken the jubilee clip on the throttle body slightly and rotate the top of throttle body toward you to gain easy access to it.

[Scalyback]

[center]

As if by magic, on the Scaley channel...








Same thing popped up on Thunderbolt, I kept one of those right angled screwdrivers in the tool kit.

[papasmurf]

The manual for my Electra X states a tickover of 900 RPM which to me seems far too high. It will tickover reliably at 700 rpm.

[ric]

You could leave it alone for the moment and just 'ride' it out
As your new engine loosens up the tick-over speed will increase and this problem should disappear.

[Thack]

Dean: it is true - it will definitely improve as the engine runs in. HOWEVER, you don't need to put up with it. Just unscrew that big slotted brass screw towards to upper rear of the injector unit. A quarter turn will make a real difference. Try an eighth turn first.



As the engine runs in, the idle speed will increase and in due course you can lower it again. There is absolutely no point at all in waiting for it to sort itself out, when you can fix it in about ten seconds.



Listen to what jefrs says: if you loosen the jubilee clip you can turn the throttle body such that you can get straight onto the screw without removing the seat. Then you can stick a screwdriver in your pocket, drive until it's warmed up, pull into a lay-by and adjust the idle speed as required.



Michael: the bi-starter does not cause any enrichment of the mixture. It's been discussed and explained elsewhere on this forum.



I don't agree with Alan R that you need to get it hooked up to an analyser. For a start, there's no way your dealer will have one. No, this stalling problem is so common it's probably true to say they pretty well all do it, especially when new. Even the road tests have mentioned it. The problem seems to be a conflict between the mixture the engine needs for a reliable tickover and what the catalyser needs to keep the exhaust clean. The ECU behaves slightly oddly at idle; one indication is that you may find your tickover gradually speeding up and slowing down in a repeating cycle, taking perhaps ten or twenty seconds per cycle.



My B5 was improved massively by changing to an NGK BPR6ES. If you haven't done that, then I strongly advise you do it straight away. After that, bump up the idle speed as required - described above.



papasmurf: the specified idle speed for the current UCE bikes like Dean's is even worse: 1100rpm! It sounds totally wrong on a bike like ours. I've adjusted mine to run at 700rpm, like yours, but I'm running it open-loop which makes it much easier to achieve.

[Rattlebattle]

Mine ticks over at about 1100rpm. I have today received an O2 sensor eliminator in the post and will shortly fit it to run open loop. Then I'll lower the tickover. Maybe my friend won't say it sounds like a dumper truck then ( he's right). It doesn't stall though. +1 in the NGK BPR 6 ES plug. My iridium one fouled; dealer reckons they are a waste of money on these. Just saying what he thinks.