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By neddy
#35239
Go with Leon, why would you try to start any motor with the lights on
By Gwilly
#35242
If we believe that electrical current will always follow the path of least resistance, ie though a wire or through yourself…

Then i have to ask why would it prefer to go through a lighting circuit with bulbs but not through a starter circuit which only consists of a starter solenoid coil and clutch switch. ( in gear with engine stalled). If i stalled at the exit of a dark country lane trying to join a main road. Would i be happy turning off my lights whilst trying to fire up the bike? All but invisible to passing traffic… NO I WOULD NOT…

Daylight running lights possibly but not in the dark.. Therefore i agree with Frank and would be checking the starter solonoid and switchgear wiring connections for high resistance readings.. somethings not right…

Having said that i note that boyer make a power box with lighting delay circuit which i suppose cuts off the light when the starter is pressed.. Ok if you know the bike will fire up japan style but enfields can be a bit moody.. Just not sure i like the idea..

Please no offence intended Alan L i’m sure your gizmo has a place… cheers gwilly
By Alan (Lancashire)
#35244
PS: my unit was designed that it only supressed the HEADLIGHT for "x" number of seconds , your side lights and tail tight are still illuminated. secondly , I would check the condition of the batter / starter and all connections , as a fairly low compression bullet should fire up with the h/lamp on. my unit was based at the modern "jap" rider , that has still not found the light switch after 4 sunny sunday morning rides , with his heated gris and satnav.
By Gwilly
#35245
Of course to be clear i'm only talking about Davie's DC powered Electra..

The old AC/DC bullets were designed as a solution to this very problem, engine stop headlight goes off but running lights remain on..

Plenty of power from the 14AH batt to fire the motor and keep lights on... A requirement in the USA..
By Norm
#35252
I'm still a believer in that somehow with the headlight on the starter wire is isolated, it is not that it can't crank it over, there is nothing at all not even a click from the solonoid, turn the headlight off and it will fire straight up. There is some isolator in the wiring, bet my bottom dollar on it
By Alan (Lancashire)
#35253
ok , norm , but using a unit that I supply , would only use 30ma on the timer , and could be set between 1 sec and 60 secs delay before the 55w headlight bulb kicked in, that (as been expressed before) can only be a good thing?, all enquiries to [email protected] the unit price is £12.49 + P+P (uk)
By Frank
#35255
Looks like I shall have to rip mine apart to try and fix why it works when it shouldn't then!
By Frank
#35258
Mind you thinking about it the solenoid requires full voltage to work. Anything less and it isn't interested. Perhaps when I've tried it it's when I've stalled it or engine dies and Ive immediately pressed the starter. The battery just off charge would be at top voltage without having had chance to decay under load of the lights. Perhaps it would be different when trying from cold. But there is nothing physically fitted to prevent it from working.
By Frank
#35280
OK, I think my post above is right. Having tried the starter today with the lights on after the bike hasn't been used for a couple of days, then as Norm says there is nothing, not even a click from the solenoid. Without the lights it turned over and started no problem. After a 30 mile run then stopping and immediately restarting the engine with the lights on was also fine. It must need a full voltage to work the solenoid.That's the limiter.

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