Forum

[Alan R]

Stay with the "Programme" IAN D-----Uncle NORM's the man for this !!

[IanD]

Hello again, thanks for the help, the bike is at work so I'll have a play tomorrow afternoon/evening.
I can only answer/ask 2 things, 1. no the tail light doesn't work. 2. What relay?

[Norm]

Ian, when I was doing this conversion A/C to D/c I was fitting a relay a relay for some reason I can no longer remember but it was obviously because I felt wiring into the headlight without it would overload the wires somewhere which it sounds like might have happened in your case. The tailight should work as it is not part of the A/C D/C wires you have altered but the fact it doesn't work indicates a wire has burnt/rubbed through somewhere. Replace the fuse holder, then with a test light check the handelbar light switch to see where you have power and go from there and work your way along the wiring into the headlight shell, particularly where you have done the wire modification

[Alan (Lancashire)]

norm , recently on older 12v (dc) lights I have made something like this http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es ... iewProduct basicly 2 relays that are fed from your dip/main switch with an additional thick wire coming from the battery , there is no voltage drop on the lights thru the switchgear , bacicly its 2x relays from ebay (£1.50 each), wires soldered/heatshrunk and hidden in the h/lamp shell.

[Norm]

Hi Alan, this is for the conversion from A/C headlight to a D/C headlight and I was fitting a relay under the seat, powered directly from the battery, I think from memory because I felt the existing active from the battery through the existing fuse was not good enough to carry the extra load of having the headlight also drag power through it. Using the relay means the existing ignition on wiring is carrying the same load and the existing headlight still only carries the same load but fed through the relay directly from the battery. The relay I triggered from the power to the brake light switch so no increased current draw on the original wires. To me this seems most likely where Ian has come unstuck

[IanD]

Evening guys, I tracked back through the wiring mods I did before. I took the power directly from the switches on the RH bar to feed the switch giving power to the lights, then disconnected the yellow wire from the ac/cd regulator. This means all the lights now work without the engine running, although this does cause the battery to discharge if the engines not running. However I wondered if fitting a high output alternator would help with this?
I have also (I think) found the issue with the fuse melting. I accidentally earthed a dodgy connection to the 30A fuse which immediately cut the lights and blew the fuse, exactly what happened on Tuesday night, and also stopped the electric start from working. So having now replaces the dodgy wiring everything now appears to be working properly, just in time for MOT in a couple of weeks time. Thanks for all your help with this one again guys, much appreciated. IanD

[Norm]

Hi Ian, glad it is fixed and a 4 wire stator if it is working properly will give you all the power you need