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[Bertie the Bullet]

Hi again gents, while the front wheel was off I thought I would check out the rusty wet stuff running out from under the front suspension covers ( Bertie has the metal type covers that cannot be moved or removed until the stanchions have been removed ), so I have removed the bolts that hold the indicator arms and clamp the stanchions to the steering head, also removed the big screws in the top of the nacelle, looking down the hole I can see a hex shape hole and the spring ( no oil ), I have some questions..............................................................
1, Can I assume that I need a big Allen key to undo the stanchions from the nacelle ?
2, If so please can someone let me know the size the hex is ?
3, Will there be any more unusual tools required to change the oil seals ?
4, which fork oil is best for a nice soft comfortable ride ?

Thanks again gents.

[Bertie the Bullet]

P.s. I've just seen the technical notes on oil seal replacement but it doesn't explain how to remove the suspension unit from the nacelle, however some of my other questions have been answered.

[grunda 12]

Hi Bertie to remove the stanchions you need to unscrew them out of the nacelle the bike has the key the foot peg bar is the same hex size so all you have to do is remove the foot pegs to access the bar you may find that there are 2 seals per leg they are usually held in by a clip above the top seal be very care ful when levering the seals out as the top of the fork leg is very fragile hope I've been some help atb paul

[Bertie the Bullet]

Thanks Paul, great help, saved me hunting around the shops tomorrow trying it find a hex bit to fit, note to mr H, please can his mentioned in the technical notes..

[PeteF]

What a coincidence, I just did this today.
The hex is 1/2". Best bet is a length of hex bar with a socket and a good long handle - those threads can be stiff. Don't forget you're upside down so it's clockwise to undo.
The O rings on top of the stanchions will probably be U/S and possible the ones on the caps too. New copper washers for the bottom are a good idea as well while you're making a shopping list.
Clean out the bottom nuts well as all the crap ends up in them.
The oil control collars go back chamfer upwards. Stick them on with grease when you slide the sliders back on.
You must support the top of the slider while you lever the old seals out. They could easily crack if not supported. There's a special tool, but some jubilees will do it. There's a special tool to hold back the new seals while you put the slider back on as well but a bit of stiff plastic drinks bottle will do it.
You can easily get the top and bottom yolk out of alignment, so check (visual will do) before tightening up.
The bottom caps sometimes want to turn with the studs instead of tightening - a bit of shock treatment with a hide mallet usually does it. If not, wait till the wheel is back in and compress the forks as far as possible (ratchet strap ?) which should give you enough friction.
I use ATF in the forks which seems to give a good ride (200ml per leg)

[Alan R]

With regards to the threaded bolt getting stuck in the lower leg....When dismantled I filed the hole until a clearance fit then used a Dowty Washer, then the fibre one, then the nut when assembling..The rubber distorts into the fine thread and seals against leakage....

[Bertie the Bullet]

Update...unfortunately the hex bar from the front pegs will never leave the frame due to it being bent so badly it fouls at both ends, the bottom nuts refuse to unwind even with my full weight on the front suspension , they just go round and round, so the plan.....in a short while I'm going out to get a ½ inch or 13 mm Allen key to undo the stanchions from the nacelle, once they are off if there is no oil leakage I'm going to drain off the oil through the top holes and will refill with something like a 10 for a softer ride.

[PeteF]

Wind the suspension up with a ratchet strap then try the shock treatment - decent ring or socket on the nut - sharp thwack with a mallet on the end.
If they really won't come off you cant get the seals out.(br)You can drain through the top after removing the leg but It will take some time to get it all out - pumping will help.
If your seals are leaking at all and you replace with a thinner oil they will leak even more.

[PeteF]

Oh, and a bit of heat will help those nuts off as well.

[loco builder bri]

I found the tool mentioned in oil seal replacement write up essential when i renewed the seals on my 1993 350 bullet, it would have oh so easy to have damaged the fork legs.It might seem a lot of money for a tool that will be rarely used but fork legs aren't cheap either!
Regards Bri e