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[JTL]

Hi all... just an update on my full dc conversion. The new wiring is tested, looked into in details and the design found to be right. So my problems had to be found somewhere else. My aftermarket ignition coil had a voltage drop between 1,5 and 2 V. This might have caused the the ammeter to show + 6 V charging while riding the bike. The coil had a super spark, but was too heavy for the bike, so I replaced the coil with the OEM one. The bike runs ok, but has not the same vital pick up. So I would like to replace the OEM coil again for a coil with a strong spark. Which one to choose? Another cause for my charging issues could be the relay I installed in line for the headlight. Could it have too big a resistance? Advice on coils and in line resistance is very welcome... all the best Jacob

[Norm]

Hi Jacob, I can't believe you are still struggling with this. The charging system using the 4 wire stator is more than capable of running a big coil so that is not the problem and resistance through a relay is not the problem either. What volts are you getting at the battery, motor stopped, motor at idle, and motor at 2000 rpm, this is all that matters

[Alan R]

Is this a "BORG" BIKE ??-------- Resistance is futile, apparently ..Yes, as per NORM but it seems like a regulator problem to me.. You say}--6v charging....do you mean it only shows 6v charging instead of the expected 13-14v OR that the charge rate is 6v ie showing 19-20v on test ??

[Alan R]

I WISH WE HAD AN "EDIT" FACILITY !!!!!!!!--------------Sorry about that, normal service will be resumed ASAP ---------- JTL, how does your on-bike AMPmeter show a 6 VOLT charge ??

[Dennis C]

This post will not make me popular but it has to be said.

First you say you have checked the wiring and found it to be correct, you then ask if the bigger coil or headlight relay could cause the bike to show (I assume) a constant 6 amp charge, if you had any real concept how a bike is wired then you would know that this is not possible (if wired correctly), the ammeter only shows what is going to and coming from the battery all the load, lights, ign, etc are wired to the alternator side of the ammeter with the exception on the older British bike of the horn and brake light and it is impossible for them to make the ammeter show a charge. Sorry but you have wired it incorrectly, either by wiring to the wrong side of the ammeter or at the alternator causing it to overcharge, or possibly just making a total mess of wiring it, best thing to do would be to get someone who understands bike electric to look at it.

Sorry but it had to be said.

[JTL]

Hi all... well I will try to explain things. First of all I'm not an electrical wizard, I know Dennis, and things that has to be said has to be said. I'm ok with that, no problem... I had a guy who knows about mc wiring look at my bikes wiring. We went throu everything (apart from Indian wire quality) and it should be right. It's the original wiring design with only few wire substitutes (new wires from Mr H) and only very few alterations (ac/dc to dc + relay in the headlight line). All lights etc. works as it should, and the bike runs. My ammeter show a 6V charge when the 2 coil circuits in the alternator is joined into just 1 circuit and the aftermarket coil is hooked up. When I run just the 2 purple wires or the orange/yellow wires to the reg/rect the ammeter reacts as it used to. This is the same with the oem coil installed, and all alternator wires hooked up... But the oem coil gives a weak spark. This is why I wanted another coil. So, the dc conversion actually runs as it should with no problems and fine multimeter readings too. I just want a stronger spark (and a smaller coil if possible). My question is: does anyone have a suggestion to an aftermarket ignition coil that works perfect on the Bullet and has a strong spark?.. all the best Jacob

[JTL]

forgot to mention I run the bike with oem coil back and the bike is put away for winter, so I can't do any testing untill spring. The oem reg/rect do not cook when used on the 4-wire-into-2- wire setup.

[Midge]

"My ammeter show a 6V charge" --- I bet you a shilling that it doesn't!

[Norm]

Midge, I'll double you on that, never seen an ammeter show voltage. Jacob a weak spark is usually because of low primary wire voltage and you keep talking about this 6V, where is this coming from? Until you can tell us what battery voltage is doing there is little we can do to help but I bet the battery voltage is low

[JTL]

Maybe I have not been precise enough in the describtion of the bike set up when the ammeter showed + 6 v charging. So I will try again, but first I will suggest re-reading a former thread: http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/vi ... rentpage=1 After converting to full dc (incl. 4-wire into 2-wire from alternator) I replaced the oem reg/rect with an aftermarket item. At that stage the ignition coil was already an aftermarket item too. When riding the ammeter showed + 6 V charging. Believe it or not, Midge. I have no reasons not to list a correct reading. So, something was wrong. I found out the reg/rect was faulty so swopped back to oem reg/rect. At that time we did a voltage drop test on the ignition coil. It showed a drop of 1,5 to 2 V. Then I replaced the coil back to the oem coil. With oem reg/rect and ignition coil installed at the full dc conversion all readings are fine and the bike runs fine. I did not expect the added reley to cause any restistance; I just had to ask to be sure... And then back to my original question: I just wish a stronger spark than the oem coil can deliver. Does anyone here in this forum have any experience with ie. Bosch Blue coil or the PVL our host supply? Thanks Jacob