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[simon]

I put sof aluminium washers on the banjos for the rocker oil feeds which completely cured the enigmatic leak that would appear just as you have described.. The copper washers which I had replaced the rubberised one with had work hardened and would seep when the motor was hot.

[another Allan]

Hi Mark,
I'd taken the head off anyway, so I cleaned between all the short fins at the front of the head, on the spark plug side. I used thinners at first, then roughened the surface of the casting at the root of the fins, then finished-off with acetone.
I then rested the head on its side, with the offending area uppermost, and applied JB Weld to the areas I'd prepared.
This seems to have done the trick. Not perfectly scientific because I did not trace the exact area first, but treated all the suspect areas. You'd have to crouch down by the bike and look very closely to see the 'repaired' areas. Simon's point is worth checking, because it is amazing how oil can travel from its source if subjected to the slipstream when riding. Allan.

[Mark M]

I had a similar problem on a Redditch Bullet some years ago. The top of the engine was a complete puddle of oil after a run. The culprit was a blow hole in the recess which contains the rocker cover retaining sleeve nuts. Easily welded from the inside. It goes to show that leaks aren't always what they seem!
REgards, Mark

[Norm]

I chased a leak on the inside between the top inside of the oil filter and the pump on an Interceptor timing cover. It drove me nuts for months. Once I worked out where I thought it was I boiled the timing cover on the stove in a tub of water in the hope of boiling any oil out of the perosity spot. I then put it in the oven to heat up and dry it out. I then dribbled Loctite super wickin ( I think 270) and watched as it cooled and the Loctite was drawn into the crack/perosity. Never a problem since

[Phil Ashbrook]

Norm , thats a cool baking method , my bullet has the original resin blobs sealing the oil pump pilot holes which were cross drilled , it must be baked resin as if it broke off it would result in a total loss of pressure so its asking a hell of a lot for that blob to remain stable ..I have thought about redoing it ...but what if I get it wrong ?
I guess if it aint broke dont fix it .

[PeteF]

Just a caution re. Hemant's temporary method......."So far I have lived with it by stuffing the gap between fins with folded kitchen towel, and replace this when it gets soggy and leaks"............Hot oil-soaked rags can combust alarmingly easily as I once found out on an A10 years ago. I was using rags to soak up a small leak on the rocker box rather too close to the exhaust manifold. The rags set fire while I was riding!!!

[MHSILVERW]

Has anyone got a photo of the repair using JBWeld they can share or upload?
I may have found my 'porous spot' - after running the engine for a while and using the rag method & then some talc - carful investigation after seems to suggest the problem is one of the 'tunnels' in front of the spark plug. It would be great if anyone can show the repairs thay have done so I know what to aim for....and with the hed in 'situ' how best to apply some JBWeld - maybe with an ice-lolly stick or cotten bud?
Regards
Mark email: [email protected] if anyone can email shere a photo but cant upload here.

[MHSILVERW]

Apologies for speling - - shame I cant edit the last message. Sorry. M

[Alan R]

Hi guys------- THIS FROM BARRY N EARLIER}----------------------I had a similar problem with my Sixty-5. It turned out to be a porous cylinder head casting, which weeped oil, ever so slightly, between two of the fins. It took a while to pinpoint and the precise location was around one of the cylinder head stud tunnels. Someone on the American Enfield site had experienced the same thing, and offered two suggestions for a cure. The first was to apply heat-resistant exhaust paint to the area, which I found only worked for a short while. The second - and successful - suggestion was a tiny splodge of "JB Weld" (a magic compound in a tube, widely available on Ebay) which I applied with a cotton bud after thoroughly cleaning the area with acetone (nail varnish remover). It is a very discreet repair, not noticable deep in the fins and it is has been totally dry now for over a year (2500km). --------------------------- THERE YOU ARE, SIMPLES !! Cheer BARRY for that info

[Roeland]

Hi,
Believe it or not I have the same problem on a C5. It only starts showing after about 800 km. If you clean your bike regularly you probably would not notice. Tried to torque the rocker arm cover and cylinder head - no cure - still happens.

Regards

Roeland