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[Thunderchild]

Evening all. I've embarked on changing over my 2000 bullet from A/C headlight to D/C. I'd appreciate an idiot guide as to what wire connects to what as I'd like the revised wiring to run through the ammeter. So far I've connected the wires from the alternator to combine the windings after verifying the highest voltage at the battery when running the engine. I have a boyer powerbox fitted by a previous owner but the loom is a mess. I've removed the A/C regulator and now have a number of wires with no home. I have the YELLOW and AMBER previously connected to the alternator. I have the YELLOW/RED and AMBER from the A/C regulator. I also have a relay that I'd like going to utilise. I've read a number of previous postings regarding this work and would appreciate a step by step guide if possible. Thanks in advance, Andy.

[Norm]

Hi Andy, it is quite simple, basicly you can ignore the amber wire coming out of the loom it is an earth wire which should be attatched to the frame further up the loom, you can connect it to the frame if you wish. The yellow /red wire from the loom needs to be connected to the positive on the battery through a relay and fuse. I use the power to the brake light as the relay trigger wire. I'm assuming you know how the relay works? You now have your headlight running off the battery all that you have to do is combine the alternator wires up to get the full alternator charge going into the battery

[Thunderchild]

Thanks Norm. So, ignore the yellow/red wire that connected to the a/c regulator? There is already another yellow/red wire connected to the boyer output that is supplying power to the loom. However, as it stands, the headlight does not work. If I temporarily jump the redundant yellow wire to the powerbox then the headlight comes on and the ammeter registers a drop. However, the 'off' setting on the handlebar switch does not appear to work as the headlight is always on when the ignition is live. Previous posts talk of re-routing the nacelle yellow wire. I appear to have too many spare wires. I'm familiar with relay operation. I've already combined the alternator wires. I'd appreciate a step by step guide as the loom is in a bit of a mess from a previous owner! Thanks again, Andy

[Norm]

Ok the yellow/red wire that the A/C reg plugged into becomes the new headlight feed through the relay, and the relay is powered directly from the pos of the battery and the relay is controlled by the brake light wire which is switched off when the ignition is off so no power to the headlight with ignition off. Who connected up the powerbox? Powerbox wiring should remain as per the original Indian rec/reg The alternator wires I just join together down at the connector above the gearbox. This then leaves the 2 wires above the gearbox connector spare going back up into the loom, the amber and the red yellow. The amber goes directly to the headlight as the headlight earth so you can just ignore it or cut it off. The yellow/red from above the gearbox runs up to the A/C reg. This can be removed. The plug into the A/C reg has a second yellow /red going into the loom. This wire is the headlight supply and you now connect this to the new relay. You do not have to touch any other wires. Once it is all running you must check that you have wired the alternator to the power box to the higher output reading. I can go through that later, firstly get the headlight/relay setup working first

[Thunderchild]

Thanks again Norm. Right, It's actually a RED/YELLOW wire connected to the boyer pos (red) output. There is a black wire grounded on the neg output. The inputs are the two violet alternator wires. The boyer was fitted by the previous owner. I've jumped the old A/C regulator YELLOW/RED wire to the battery pos and the headlight comes on even when the handlebar switch is switched off. I'm registering around 10.5v on the headlight GREEN wire when the headlight is supposedly switched off. I wonder if the switch is defective. Can I perform any continuity tests? I've checked my Snidal manual and the handlebar switch wires bear no resemblance to Pete's colours. Any ideas gents? Thanks, Andy.

[Norm]

Ok Andy, it sounds like the Boyer is wired correctly no problems. Just looking at the wiring diagram I think you have a faulty headlight switch because there should be no power in the green wire with the switch off. The yellow /red from where the A/C reg was supplies power to the handelbar switch only The switch then supplies power to either the green or blue wires to the headlight, green being low beam, blue being high beam. This is from the wiring diagram that I have, yours may differ slightly but should basicly be the same. The yellow wire from the alternator that goes into the loom I think is no longer needed, if you are putting power into this wire I think that could be the cause of your problems because it also goes to the headlight switch. Basicly if you put power into the yellow/red from the A/C reg connector and the head light comes on there is a fault in the switch

[Norm]

Andy, I haven't seen it on a bullet but I'm wondering if they may have at some stage set some of these bikes to run all the time with the headlight on as some countries required this on motorbikes. It didn't matter previously because it would have been powered from the A/C circuit, motor running, headlight on, no problems

[Thunderchild]

Cheers Norm. I'm sure that the headlight switch did work properly when the headlight was powered from the a/c circuit. There's no power currently going into the yellow wire that connected to the a/c regulator. I had tried jumping the yellow wire from the battery pos instead of the yellow/red one to see if it made any difference but the switch was still not shutting off the headlight. My understanding is that the switch is pretty complicated in operation. It may be best if I order a replacement and try again? Thanks, Andy.

[Thunderchild]

It appears that my bullet's wiring resembles that of a 'North American Export '99 and later' according to Mr Snidal's book. I've located a diagram and have the following query: the YELLOW wire that used to connect to the alternator terminates on pin 4 of the LH control module, whereas the YELLOW/RED terminates on pins 5 and there's a blue wire from here powering pin 8. This means that even with the light switch 'off' the yellow/red wire will be supplying power via the blue wire to the other side of the switch, thus switching on the headlight. I notice that the spare YELLOW wire from the alternator does not jump power to the other side of the switch. Cheers, Andy.

[Norm]

Hi Andy, your switchgear is obviously the older type, with the headlight controlled by the left hand switch and these switches are pretty dodgy and do suffer from wear. I have repaired a couple but it is far too difficult to explain how to do this. You should not have any power to 8 because this should be the earth point for the horn. Red/white is power to the horn from the ignition switch and has nothing to do with the lighting switch block. If everything else works ok at the moment and you need to get back on the road I would be inclined to fit a toggle switch in the yellow /red wire instead of the relay where the original A/C reg was .