- Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:27 pm
#27575
Hi guys--------- OK, I'm probably going to get well and truly CASTIGATED for this --- (please note the spelling as I don't want a falsetto voice at my time of life), but here goes anyway}---- NORDICGLOOM, As you have now already removed the head and barrel I want you to seriously consider purchasing one of our hosts FORGED pistons.. These are now available in Standard Compression Ratio... Both NORM and MIDGE have indicated the very real chance that your OEM piston may well "let-go" of its' crown....Please don't think that I'm scaremongering, NO--not at all but as you have just found out it's not a 5-minute job to get at that piston, so now would be the time to change it...and from this comes the idea that the cylinder bore could benefit from being measured as well ??.............Also, the original Cast Iron valve guides are not all that strong and can break-up in service.... A change to BRONZE ones will give a much longer and trouble-free life, with a stem seal on the inlet helping to reduce oil consumption.........Finally, although you can always measure and re-fit the originals, a NEW set of valve springs would help, given the age and mileage of the bike.................OK, now that I've got your attention, you'll need to measure the height of the lip on top of the barrel and also the depth of the matching recess in the cylinder head OR, alternatively}---Having cleaned them, place the head on top of the barrel and see if the gap between them is SMALLER than the thickness of the new head gasket...It must be smaller otherwise the gasket won't be compressed between them and can't form a gas-tight seal.....HELPFUL TIP}---- You don't need a piston-ring compressor as the bottom, inside lip of the barrel has a very generous taper to gather the rings and compress them when lowering the barrel back onto the engine...... Hope thats given food for thought ??