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[Pete (Staffs)]

After an intermittent cutting out, I had a complete electrical failure recently. After much head scratching, it turned out to be a bad connection on the ignition connecting block in the headlight !

[David]

Hi guys, sent some family out to get a connector today. The ring end is the right size and the crimp end the wrong size. Way to big. But this is easily sorted.

I have temporarily just cut the wire back and screwed it under the main battery negative wire. The bike still show no signs of life! I'm taking it that the rear light bulb would not course complete electrical failure?

The only earth wire bolted to the frame I can find, is on the rear light like I said originally. Where is the earth wire usually connected?

Anymore help would be greatly appreciated.

[Norm]

David, earth wire connected to the tailight will always cause problems because it isn't part of the frame, has too many bolted connections that will give trouble. Earth point is normally bolted directly to the frame behind the battery box using the upper battery bolt mounting point. Make sure the connection to the frame is rust and paint free

[hubb]

David, there was a similar post to yours about six weeks ago[no life help wanted]where all the electrics were dead which turned out to be a second blown fuse which was in the wiring under the saddle. However,that was a different model- a 2007 350- and apparently not all bikes have this second fuse but it might be worth checking to see if your bike has.

[Alan R]

Hi guys---------------- A few years ago I went out to a club member who had exactly your symptoms ( Bike had cut out entirely whilst riding along)......Turned out to be a loose nut on the Ammeter (all your electrics pass through here)..........2 nyloc nuts with fresh washers cured that little "nasty"------ Check 'em out BUT do remove the battery earth first (you can direct-short your spanner onto the casquette)------------

[Alan R]

-----------------------------PLUS}-would strongly urge you to mount the whole of the tail light unit via compressible rubber mounts ( to absorb the severe vibrations that seem to "gather" there), then use a separate earth wire to join the lamps onto the mainframe...(My Bullet 65 trail bike a few years back)

[David]

Thanks for the help guys. I have found the issue. Mine has what appear to be a modern type fuse inside of the rubber case, I wonder if it is one of our hosts? Whether this was original or not is another question? I don't think so? As the wire joining this fuse was simply soldered to the red wire which I would of taken the original fuse would of been joined to. Anyway the wire on the solder has broken. The size difference between the to wires is quite big. So I'll either use butt connector or scotch connector depending.

This bike has had money spent on it by its previous owners. Which is just 2. I wonder how much of this bike is original.

For instance the coil, regulator and rectifier, fuse, and some other things are mounted in the left hand tool box? Was this normal Alan R on a 65 trials?

It has a mid 50's Lucas rear light with metal back, which is connected to the alloy mudguard. Eureka Electronic Ignition, woodmans seat, pan filter with special plastic shield. Make me wonder if any modifications have been done to the inside of the engine? It does run well. Better than my old Bullet.

[Alan R]

Hi guys--------------- DAVID, either the bike was a Watsonian conversion prior to sale OR it's a standard road bike that a previous owner has "uprated" shall we say.. in either case the L/H toolbox only contained the main fuse holder and the rear brake stop switch...Anything else has been transferred from original positions --- mainly to keep them in a dry place..Please DON'T use scotchlocks. They are an abomination unto the great electrical god AMPERE...( These are those ones that you press down onto the cable and they cut their way on ??)-------------- I use the small version of the domestic plastic junction block......Both ends are securely clamped within an insulated area but the screw tops are still accessible for testing etc..

[Frank]

I'm not a fan of soldered joints in anything that is subject to vibration. Just about anywhere on a bike. A weak point is created at the end of the solder flow and the heat used makes the wire brittle. There is nothing wrong with crimped joints provided they are done using the correct size connectors for the wire and a decent set of crimping pliers. Ratchet type not those cheap thin painful to use types.

[David]

Hi Yes Allen that is the type. The Scotch Lock type. I know you mention about testing them goes out the window. Which I guess makes it harder to detect possible shorts or longs in the future God forbid?

Yes Allen, that is why I don't really want to solder it again. Maybe my only option is to use a butt connector I guess.