Forum

[Cafeman]

You have 3 preload settings on the standard shocks (as far as I my bike is concerned) and there is no difference in rider seated pre-load when I'm seated (maybe if you are on the heavy side then there would be a change) and certainly static preload does not change regardless of setting. BUT, the shock "works" more when set to the least pre-load vs. at max setting. So there is actually some level of dampening taking place, or better yet, action when pre-load is set softer. Not much when set stiff (unless you are heavier and/or an aggressive rider) Dampening is not adjustable on the oem shocks, it is what it is. Softer or stiffer pre-load on these shocks allows you to have what appears to be some form of dampening, could be soft, could be hard......might be just right. The shocks will only be perfect for a very small percentage of riders, those at the weight and riding style where the shock function best.

[Paulk]

I wondered when we'ed get here. Pre-load has nothing to do with shock stiffness, it mearly alters the distance between the top of the tyre and the bottom of the mudguard, so greater loads don't bottom out. ie your starting further away, the shocker action remains exactly the same as before.

[sofiaspin]

Ok I get the message for the Enfield sages - I will leave rear sprocket alone.

[Alan R]

Hi guys------------ have a look at this regarding PRE-LOAD}---- http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda- ... eload.html ------- notice the remarks about the different "sag" between the front and rear of the bike and the need to keep that ratio balanced... By reducing my pre-load I have maintained that balance 'twixt forks( now more reactive to bumps because I'm using ATF ) and the rear shocks....With my mass and riding style it works for me but may not for your personal circumstances---- The spring-rate remains the same,the damping characteristics remains the same-- but the rear shocks will react to the road sooner, and now in a balanced manner with the fronts.....

[Alan R]

Hello there SOFIASPIN---------- what they are saying is}---- you can't reduce the rear sprocket by one tooth because a)-- The standard sprocket and brake drum is a one piece casting , and b)--- Although you can get an aftermarket separate drum and sprocket, the sprocket is already at it's smallest diameter.......hence the phrase}--" I'd like to see you do it".... cos you physically can't... Other makes rear wheel assy's might help here... I was toying with a conversion kit to take the Triumph T140 750cc Bonneville rear (including disc) but sold the bike before that got too far.......

[Paulk]

Alan, Agreed in the main but I fail to see how the rear shocks will react sooner - as you've done nothing to change it.

[Cafeman]

Paulk, preload (setting of sag) on the spring is set/adjusted to have the shock operating in the middle of the stroke as a general rule for normal riding. Any less sag would typically be for aggressive street riding or the track. If one has to crank down the preload, or back it way off to get the shock operating in the middle of its stroke, then the spring rate is wrong. There are soft springs, there are firmer springs. Spring rates anyone? There are plenty of articles and books on suspension out there to explain this. If the spring is dual rate or progressive then setting the preload or sag can alter the feel when seated in most cases. Hard damping doesn't help. Don't mistake the use of basic general terms being used in describing "feel" as a sign one has no clue what they are talking about. I've read up and adjusted plenty of sportbikes with more sophisticated suspensions....and gotten it spot-on thank you very much. The compression and rebound damping with these basic shocks is hard/slow/harsh/too fast/pogo-like...call it what one will. The shocks are probably perfect for a small number of riders. The rest, like me, fiddle with the preload to try and alter how it feels.

I may try the 18 tooth counter-sprocket, it sounds like it would be an improvement over the 17 toother.

[Paulk]

Cafeman, Pre-load alters nothing but ride height. Picture this, two identical springs on the table in front of you. Put enough weight on them to compress them two inches. Take weights off and feed wire through one to compress it 1 inch and twist to keep it in that position - you have now pre-loaded it one inch. Put a packer one inch thick under the pre-load spring so the tops are the same height. Return the weights. The only difference is the pre-loaded one in one inch higher. ie ride hieght. You still have the same weight sitting on the same springs behaving the same way. Thank you very much. Google suspension preload. http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/pre ... rticle.php (one of many).

[Cafeman]

If only it (your scenario) were that simple. You adjust your ride height by changing shock length, (shims, bushings, linkage on modern bikes), the forks location in the triple trees by raising or lowering them, or by shorter/or longer springs or stanchions. You do this to change the characteristics of how the bike handles: how it turns in, the stability, etc. So you only think preload is to set ride height? OK, but now where are the forks and shocks in their stroke? What if you want to raise the rear or lower the front or any combination of that? What do you do? What do you call it? You want a quicker catlike turn-in.....How do you get there? Not by adjusting preload. You do the above to change ride height.
You set sag so the forks and shocks are about in the middle of their stroke. And less sag for aggressive riding, typically. It can be whatever you want it to be, but in the middle is the general rule. If you can't get the sag right without having to crank down or back off the preload then the springs are too soft/stiff....use whatever terms you like. There are springs with variable rates, might be called dual rate. Whatever. They are designed to give a softer ride initially and get firmer as they compress. Preload on them can have an effect of initial firmness. Then you adjust damping to suit, compression and rebound. Softer, slower, faster, harder.....whatever term you wan to use. Change oils/fluids/valving etc. But ride height is not adjusted by messing with the preload. And preload can have an effect on initial feel. Done, Thank You just the same.

[Cafeman]

Well I'm not done! I'll have to correct myself on where to set sag via preload adjustments should be at. Sag set in the middle of the suspension stroke is waaaaay wrong! Not sure where I came up with that? From what I recall, 30-35mm (with rider) was for more sport oriented riding (what I used on my sportbikes) and something like 40-45 was recommended for general street setups (with rider)
I had to search again for a link to one of the best articles on "more than one wants to know about suspension setup, terms, and how to tell what your suspension is doing" http://aprilia.rsvmille.home.comcast.ne ... _guide.htm
How we got from an 18 tooth sprocket to this.....yikes! LOL