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By geoffro
#24500
Shame on you Anders F R for not knowing who Anders Micheneck was. he was one of the greats when you talk of Speedway and was indeed World Champion at one time and represented Sweden many times.
By Alan R
#24506
Hi guys--------- Oi!! you lot, stop all this back-slapping and self congrats etc, and re-read my first post ..... That million-Euro prize is MINE, I tell you ---- M-I-N-E ---- AArrrrrggggghhhhhhhhhhhh !!! :)---:)----:)---- Only joshing, lads !!...Glad you've got it sorted, matey...
By Anders F. R.
#24744
Well, I may nok know Anders Michanek (which is his name, actually), but I happen to know in person another speedway legend, Aage Hansen: http://www.speedwayplus.com/AageHansen.shtml OK, he was never world champion but participated in the WC several times, is twice Nordic champion and seven times Norwegian champion. And his mechanic from the "good old days", Per Aulie, has rebored my RE engine and refurbished the cylinder head. Beat that!...... And I know of Basse Hveem, also a former Norwegian and Nordic champion and WC participant:
http://www.speedwayplus.com/LeifHveem.shtml Do you know these two? Regards, Anders F. R.
By Anders F. R.
#25632
FINAL UPDATE! .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Saturday at last I got as far as in fact dealing with the problem. Getting hold of an adjustable 18 mm reamer turned out to be difficult, but I finally sourced one. Anyway, this has been done: .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- >>> Small end bush and gudgeon pin replaced, bush reamed to correct fit (pushing g-pin through with a light finger push). >>> Big end bearing and main bearings found to be OK by rotating the engine less piston etc. by hand, "bending" the conrod and trying to "move" the flywheel in all directions, listening to hoises and feeling for any unacceptable play. Nothing found. >>> Honing the cylinder bore very lightly to get a fine crosshatch pattern. >>> "Polishing" the piston very lightly with 800 wet&dry. >>> Measuring the piston clearance: 1/10 mm may be on the high side, but at least it won't seize if driven too hot (slight signs of piston nipping up once in the past). >>> Replacing the piston rings. Ring gap after: 0,25 mm, before 0,65 mm. >>> cleaning everything VERY carefully before assembly. >>> Painting the cylinder with stove paint (to withstand 800 degrees C.....) >>> Assembly with copious amount of engine oil on all parts, new gaskets etc. .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Had the first run yesterday. The metallic rattle/knocking noise is gone! Engine is pulling better than before, running quieter and everything feels nearly perfect. However: Still a little rattling sound from somewhere if I lower the idle too much. It disappears if I keep the idle speed "not too low" or as far as I touch the throttle. Not present when I am riding the thing. .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- It can be "anything" except the crankshaft, conrod, big end or small end. Maybe the piston is a little too "loose fit"? Anyway, it doesn't sound dangerous, so this looks like success so far! .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Thanks for all help! Regards, Anders F. R.
By Alan R
#25640
Hi ANDERS and WELL-DONE that man !!!----------- the slight rattle at low revs may be a loose slide in the carb ?? Try a small amount of light grease on the slide OR, with the air filter off and the engine idling, place a small screwdriver lightly against the throttle slide to see if the noise goes........
By Knausen
#25641
I think The 175cc SACHS of yours is 0k, no fear! It's a rattlesnake motor with vibration. To avoid seizure its a quite big clearance between piston and the sylinder and I belive this make the un-nice sound.
By Anders F. R.
#25675
Thanks again, all! Had a little ride again, and must admit that the "new" rattle doesn't go completely away above idle. But it's not there all the time, and it's nowhere near as loud as the loose gudgeon pin. I too think of three possible causes for that rattle: 1. Loose carb slide. 2. Primary chain. 3. Slightly too large piston clearance. No. 1 is easy to diagnose, will do that on the next ride. No. 2 isnot undommon on these engines, as there is no adjustment or tensioning mechanism on that chain. It is not dangerous in an engine with only 10000 km on it. I will have to dismantle the clutch side cover to see. If I do I can change the gear shaft and kick start shaft gaskets as well, they are leaking slightly. 3. will just have to stay that way, no need or wish to rebore this engine now. Maybe in 40000 km, i.e. in about 40 years. Regards, Anders F. R.

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