Forum

[MikeJ]

Having faffed around with the clutch adjustment for some time I can now get my 500 Electra X into neutral with a warm engine, mostly. That just leaves the neutrals between 2nd and 3rd & 4th and 5th which are spoiling an otherwise nice bike.
Any suggestions for a non mechanic would be very welcome thanks.

[Mark M]

Mike, have a look at the clutch and gearbox section of the Technical Notes on this site, especially part 4 of the gearbox rebuild which deals with setting up the gear selector. REgards, Mark

[Frank]

There is no doubt correct clutch adjustment is crucial to the ease at which gears can be selected, but is is near impossible to get a perfect set up. The best you can hope for is to minimise clutch drag. With the bike running, in gear and clutch pulled in fully you should be able to stop the rear wheel rotating with light hand pressure on the tyre, and it shouldn't be too keen to start rotating again when the pressure is released, although it probably will.If there is much force trying to make it turn the drag is still an issue and if it can't be adjusted out then possibly the plates have warped. I find 15/40 oil in the primary helps a lot,warm or cold. Too tight or slack chain tension can also affect the change and I normally run mine between 35 and 45mm upward movement on the bottom run. 1 notch on the snail cam seems to make 10mm difference. The book states 20-30mm but this in my judgement is far too tight. There is also a knack to gear changes, be positive, not too quick and let the gear lever return between shifts is my best advice. My box also took around 5000 miles before I judged it to be fully loosened up.

[PeteF]

Mike, the neutrals are there - you can't illuminate them, so unless there is something amiss with the selector mechanism, I'm afraid it's down to technique. You can't make this old design change like a modern bike so slow but firm and positive is the order of the day.

[John L]

Mark M - Technical notes are for Albion 4-speed box........

[Mark M]

(Sighs) yes I realised that just as I posted. However, it's still worth pointing out that the Tech Notes are there, and the clutch stuff is probably worth a look too as we all know that many gearchange problems are in the clutch... (think I got away with that!) REgards, Mark

[PeteF]

Ah yes, I was assuming 4 speed box as well.

[dennis t c]

Just read your e mail, you have my sympathy I've got false neutral problems that spoil a good bike. I've replaced the clutch, changed the oil made all the adjustments known to man, can't get neutral with a warm engine, I just put up with it and live in hope that someone can. I would like to speak to you if possible

[Alan R]

Hi guys--------this RE sequential,5-speed box uses a rotating slotted-cam plate engaged over rollers that actuate sliding forks to obtain each ratio selected....No different than most Brit. bikes of the day (prior to the Japanese invasion with their the rotating cylindrical cam, rollers etc).....However the internal linkage used to make this happen is a bit flimsy and long-winded to say the least, and contains two fulcrum pins that can give rise to wear and "sloppy" movement (Have a look at the selector mech. in "Electra X" in Parts Books on-line)--------- I ran a "65" a few years back and found the change mechanism a bit lumpy... Felt like it needed a strip and fettle with a file to smooth things up a bit.............. I currently have the use of a BSA B40 from the 1970's with an identical type of change mech. but a more direct actuating system....It gives a nice, positive "clik" every time into neutral from 1st or 2nd..............My hunch is that it's the actuating system not moving the cam plate far enough due to wear etc.....PETE F is correct}--- the neutrals ARE there...You cannot have two gears selected at the same time ( even in Formula One cars ) as the box would rip itself to shreds...Therefore you MUST have a neutral spot when changing from one speed to another...MIKE J relates to those neutrals between 2nd & 3rd & 4th & 5th that his bike is encountering...To me those are classic symptoms for the actuator system being at fault rather than the selector ( The actuator being common to each ratio attempted to be selected)...

[MikeJ]

Thanks everybody for the advice. The bikes only got 2500 miles on it albeit it's 5 years old. I've put the last 800 on since May. Will try the gentle/patient approach t/w checking chain and further adjustment before any attempt on the internals. All my previous bikes have been either Jap or Italian so I will probably have to learn some patience. Mike