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[Barry N]

I re-fitted the battery to my Sixty5 today after giving it a good charge (I use a cheap trickle charger which seems to do the job effectively). But when I switch the lights on, the ammeter flicks to total discharge with no lights working (sidelights, tail light or headlights) as if there is a dead short. Yet the indicators and stop-light are working normally, and there is current getting to the horn, although its sound is very muted. This is when the engine is not running (I am aware that the headlight only works when the engine is running, but the rest of the lights should come on). The ignition circuit is working normally and the engine starts ok, and the ammeter is showing a charge when the engine is running with lights switched off. (I didn’t try switching the lights on when the engine is running!). I cannot try the electric start, as I converted it to kickstart-only three years ago.

Does anyone have an idea where I should start looking?

This may, or may not, be related to the fault, but I put it back on the road last week after its winter lay-off and set about getting it MOT. (Over the winter, I took the battery indoors and every six weeks gave it a few hours on the trickle charger to keep it conditioned). On riding to the MOT place, it started cutting out when the headlight was switched on, but ran ok when I turned the lights off. I put this down to an insufficiently charged battery at the time (confirmed I thought, by a more than usual charging rate showing on the ammeter, which as expected, got a little less the more miles I travelled – but still the engine would cut out when the lights were turned on). Despite this, the lights were working at this stage and it passed the MOT. Nothing was done to it since I laid it up!

[Craig]

Simple Things 1st..How Old is the Battery? Has it Died? Try another Battery if Possible......."I have had some very Wierd and SimlerProblems when the Battery Died on my 350" (But a 2nd Hand 12V Fire Alarm Battery Out the Bin at Worked,Proved all was well then Lasted another 2 Years............ OR Its a Short [ An Expert will be on Here Shortly To Help You]....... Check For a Good Earth Too

[Barry N]

The battery might be past its best, but I don't think it has "died". The indicators are bright and they flash at normal speed when the engine is not running, and the stop light is bright too - and as I say, the engine starts easily (the muted horn may be a red herring, as it might only need adjusting). So I am thinking it's a short somewhere. Yes - I'm hoping an electrics expert will be along shortly with some suggestions! I can only do mechanical stuff myself - electricity really spooks me!

[Alan R]

Hello BARRY N ----------- I'm no electrics "expert" but have owned and run a Bullet 65 a few years ago...When you converted to kickstart only recently what did you do with the wires relating to the starter solenoid and the starter push-button on the handlebars ??

[Barry N]

Hi Alan - I converted it three years ago and have had no trouble since. I removed the solenoid and the wiring that went to the starter motor, and was left with a redundant connector hanging free (but insulated) in the toolbox. I left the starter button as it was.

[jaffa90]

Can you get a battery voltage reading (as in 12.5v) before starting the bike which has been left overnight?

[PeteF]

The indicators will pull as much current as the side lights so if they are working it suggests the battery is OK . However, if you have a voltmeter look at the battery voltage with the lights on. If voltage goes way down it probably is the battery that's gone. Otherwise look for a short somewhere. Try the wiring to the rear under the mudguard first as that can get damaged.

[WannaBRetired]

Does your bike have the third pilot light in the headlamp shell? I have twice had a dead short there (separate bikes). I removed it and replaced with a cheap substitute off Ebay. Otherwise, as posted above, it could be the wiring to your rear light. I'm no expert, but you could disconnect each of the pilot light and rear light wires in turn and you may find removing one makes everything else work (and removes the ammeter discharge). Then you would know which wire to tackle. If that doesn't work, check the wire from the switch - and so on, working backwards. There may be a better way (experts please?) but that's how I'd start.

[Barry N]

Thanks for the input - I have now traced the fault to the small light in the headlight shell. I took the headlamp off and discovered that the reflector is live and the rim shorts against the nacelle. I have the Lucas headlight and the Indian bulb holder and the bayonet fitting has metal to metal contact with the reflector. When I remove the small bulb holder it's all ok. It looks to be designed that way and its been like it for four years without trouble! However, my question now is: should the metal bulb holder be insulated from the headlight reflector? It should be an easy enough fix - or is there something else causing the short-circuit?

[WannaBRetired]

The fault on mine lay inside the bulb holder itself, verified by wiring the assembly to a spare battery. Lots of sparks! This could be corrected/made to short again by 'jiggling' the inner sprung part of the holder around, so I think it is the spring inside shorting the two parts together. There was a rubber grommet between the holder and the shell but on mine this had disintegrated to a mush. If I remember correctly, the metal bulb holder is earthed anyway, the 'live' on mine was caused by an internal short.