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[Michael]

I have a rattle... Source seems to be inside the right hand side engine casing although I might be wrong. It is worse when the engine is cool, worse when the bike leans left and is worse when the engine is under load (high revs don't matter - but hard load does). It sounds a bit 'tinny'. Any initial ideas? I first noticed a rattle on the left, primary chain side around three weeks ago - again worse when cold. That has gone, migrated to the right side!! I'm just wondering if any other EFI owners have had similar.

[Michael]

And to add to this... when I tried to start this morning (I have to use my bike to commute) the kick start arm kept seizing. I normally kick over two or three times with the clutch depressed - this was fine. Then kick firmly to start - this firm kick was where the lever wouldn't budge, so had to depress clutch again to kick through. Happened 6 or 7 times before finally kicking through and starting (it started easily enough when it kicked through). Just wondering what to look, feel or listen for.

[Gwilly]

I wonder if your coming up against normal engine compression... of course we oldies are used to compression and kick backs.... Question is why cant you kick through?? This noise thing coupled with difficult kicking could be due to a fault with the valve lifter, auto on the efi isnt it? or have i got that wrong? Dont own the newer type i'm afraid.. Sure someone will point you in the right direction.

cheers gwilly

[Gwilly]

Does it sound abit like this....

EFI NOISE

[Gwilly]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4P8K06Gr-c

try this... i will get the hang of this darn putor thing one day...

[trevorch]

Hi Michael,

If your EFI still has its auto decompressor, then you should hardly be able to feel any compression. On the other hand if the auto decompressor is faulty, the noise might be because the spring is broken. Mine made only one noisy click after starting, not the same as the valve gear and then was quiet. The clip from Gwillam sound like the decompressor keeps cutting in and out. I heard from my german dealer, that Watsons were removing the auto compressor before delivery. Is the machine still under warranty? Cheers Trevor

[Michael]

Cheers folks. I guess I'm more worried to kick through the tight point because of the rattle, as there is usually next to no resistance. I will check this weekend by kicking until the tight spot arises, removing the plug and checking if its compression resistance. Should move ultra-freely with plug removed. I'll also check the sound in comparison to your video clip. This all started with a ride out last week when I had an awful misfire all the way home - engine was spluttering, racing, stalling and jumping all the way home. Sadly I'm waaaayyyyyy out of warranty, mine is one of the first EFIs, a November 2008 built model! Does anyone know if I 'need' a special tool to remove the alternator rotor? Cams and auto decompressor are behind it...

[Michael]

And Gwilly... what exactly is a kick back? I guess I have never experienced this? Or have I?!

[Gwilly]

Ah a kick back, once felt never forgotten... suppose technicaly its when the timing of the spark is set too far advanced either manually with a lever or due to a fault with the auto advance mechanism..

what happens is the unwary kicker gives a half hearted prod on the kick start and the engine fires just before the piston reaches top dead centre... It then fires the engine backwards, theres a spit from the carb and the kick start pawl re engages as its going backwards and blasts the poor unfortunate owners leg skyward..serious injury has resulted, so a tip is never finish the kick down with a straight leg and all your weight on it. Its doubtful if this would happen with an EFI as all timing and fuel is controlled electronically and removes operator error from the equation... if its working right that is.. gwilly

[Michael]

Hmmmm, the noise doesn't really match. The one is the video is most definitely a 'clacking' however the one on my bike is much more tinny, and high pitched in comparison. Plus, it only really is noticeable when the engine is still relatively cool. I think it is still present when warm, but just quieter... Will have to investigate soon A friend said to check valve clearances - but I thought with hydraulic tappets that wouldn't be necessary?