Forum

[JTL]

Hi all
The two clamping studs/nuts just below the barrel were the ones I could not get loose. The nuts have come off by now. The little nut just above the tappets cover is also off. So everything is ready for the barrel to come loose, but it is very tight in the crank case. Remounting the head to get two points (the ports) for gentle tapping with a wooden mallet is a good idea. I will try that. Once I read at another site, that remounting the head pressure tight and using the kick strater would do the job too. I will try that too.
Have to admit I bought my new piston at Priceparts. Compression rate is 8:1 app. My bottom end is all stock so I don't want to raise the compression too much. Oherwise I'm running our hosts tuned head, 19T sprocket, free flowing exhaust and a velocity stack on a 30 mm Amal MK2. Alan R, from what you are saying I'm looking forward to run the new piston.
Jacob

[Paul M H]

If you have already removed the head then the best way is to remove the studs holding the barrel if possible. That will help give it more room so you can twist the barrel side to side to brake the seal and remove it easer

[Paul M H]

P/S When I say studs I mean the five long ones going right down though the barrel

[Midge]

I'm sure you will know about the soft washers distorting which make getting the head off difficult, Mr H supplies heat treated replacement washers to make sure it is easier next time. I also have the gas flowed head, with free flowing exhaust and air filter. It really comes alive past half throttle!

[JTL]

Hi all The barrel is off. I just had to break the gasket sealing. Force and gentle work with a screwdriver did it. Worn piston, but not bad. Everything looks goods, and the best part is that there is no up/down or sidewards play to the conrod. Midge, I already have the better washers from Mr H. Learned that, when I pulled the head first time. It was a challenge to get it off. Not a big problem, but a challenge. This time it was a joy to remove the head. They really do the job. Thanks everybody for advice, tips and sharing your experience. Jacob

[Alan R]

Hi guys------------JACOB, this time when you replace the barrel DON'T use gasket glue ( it's not needed and gives exactly that problem you've just encountered)...Make sure the crankcase mating face is clean and dry, use a new lower gasket and massage a small amount of grease into both surfaces, using thumb and first finger....Ensure the bottom of the barrell is also clean and dry then fit and re-assemble....I regularly use this method and the current gasket in question is on its' third time round whilst the composite head gasket is on its' second fitting !!... I DO use a semi-setting compound with a Copper head gasket however, as these castings aren't of ROLLS-ROYCE standards.....

[JTL]

Hi, Alan R, this is a very useful tip. I have ordered the solid 1 mm copper head gasket from our host. I have some Blue Hylomar, I have planned to use for this. I have an OEM bottom end gasket, and was planning to use the Blue Hylomar for this one as well. But, as you say, it might get stuck. Is it normal grease you are using, or will some coppergrease do it? I also have a composite gasket mounted without anything. It was stuck a small parts, but I believe it is ok to use again if nescesary. The reason I want to try the solid copper gasket is because of heat transfer. Hopefully it works as the theory says. I have good experience with the composite gasket. No leaks at all. All the best. Jacob

[simon]

Sorry to hijack this thread somewhat but the gasket goo thing is interesting. I recent split the crank cases on both the 350 bitsa bullet and the 860 GT Ducati. I made new gaskets for both out of good quality gasket paper and assembled them both dry. The bullet in fact had all its gaskets replaced and I didn't use any gasket goo of any variety whereas in the old days I lathered everything in it to be sure. This time instead of a host of seeping spots both engines are dry. This brings me to the inevitable conclusion that dry gaskets are best..

[Alan R]

Hi guys ------------ JTL, I use a Lithium-based grease which is the type most commonly found in wheel bearings et...Have a look at this}--- ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_soap ) ........ I've no experience in this instance with Coppergrease, as this is more for an "Anti-seize" application between various metals..... Before re-assembling the head, do a dry-run assembly of head onto barrel and check that the gap between them is SMALLER than the 1mm thickness of your new copper gasket... If it's bigger then the gasket will not be gripped and blow-by will occur... On my current barrel/head ensemble I had to reduce the lip at the top of the barrel by 50% in order to obtain any grip at all !!!............ Anneal the copper, remove any scale left on and fit.... I know BULLET WHISPER has done an o-ring mod. to seal the push-rod tunnel....

[Alan R]

-----------SIMON, didn't mean to ignore you just then..I'm getting "TYPERITUS" as I post on a few other forums as well----------- YES, dry gaskets....IMHO there are too many folk who use a gasket compound as if it were meant to be a glue !!........ Generally speaking a gasket is meant to "Fill-in" where machining/manufacturing fails to give a perfect seal... Have a look at this }----- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasket --------------- Back in the day, with the advent of mass-produced, unit construction engines with a horizontal split the use of the semi-setting "liquid gasket" came to the forefront ( eg}-- the Honda CB750 and the Kawasaki K1-750/4)....To-day this is common practice....Just a thought but the current "All-singing, all-dancing" UCI, EFi engines are still vertical split, I believe ??........... Come on Enfield, catch up !! ( I'm now "Down-ranting" to "Smooth mode" )........