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[Skip]

My bike is giving me a real nightmare; the first time I took it for a decent spin it covered its self in oil. I traced this to a breather pipe which had been disconnected from the airbox when the bike had another carb fitted. The oil pot was full of mayo and spew both mayo and oil out into the atmosphere (along with oil). I removed the pot and associated pipework and replaced it with longer items which vented just behind the numberplate via a pair of modern non-return valves rather than 'duck bills' which I couldn't find......... I thought I'd sorted the problem, but realise now that all I've been doing is treating the symptoms rather than the cause....... I work a little over 3 miles from home and by the time I get to work after a gentle trundle, there is a sheen of oil on the casing just behind the cylinder and a fairly comprehensive drip(s) from various other locations...... I suspect, because I think the bike has had a long lay up prior to my ownership, that one or more of the piston rings is perhaps 'stuck in' allowing the crank case to be pressurized beyond normal levels. No oil is burnt at all, so I'm ruling out worn valve guides etc. The bike has covered less than 5000 miles - anybody got any thoughts or suggestion as to what I do next as this is really starting to annoy my enjoyment of the bike! REgards & REspect Skip. Exeter.

[Frank]

I still think you have issues with the breather system. Is the clear pipe you used oil tight around the join even when hot? Are the non return valves clear and of such a capacity so as not to restrict the flow? See my reply to your previous thread.

[Gwilly]

Seems to me its time to strip skip... With luck it may only be a head gasket blowing into the pushrod
tunnel and pressurising the crankcase... would give rise to leaks from various cover gaskets/joints.

Will the motor keep compression for a moment or two and then move past easily.

Lifting the barrel and checking the piston/rings/cylinder would not create a lot of extra work when the heads off..

Maybe the cylinder had a coat of rust and its now seized the rings..

Wouldnt expect a lot of wear valve guides etc at only 5000 miles...

Only one way to find out im afraid, you will know this bike inside out when you've finished.

regards gwilly

[Mark M]

Skip, check your oil level. Most engines run best with the oil level halfway up the dipstick. Put in more and it's likely to be blown out of the breather. Junk the non return valves and get a duckbill breather pipe from our Hosts, it's in the Accessory Catalogue.
REgards, Mark

[Dennis C]

As Mark says, get the correct duckbill valves. The ones you have may be undersize or unable to operate fast enough causing pressure in the crankcases.

Check and find where the oil is coming out it may be just a duff gasket, unlikely to be rings if the exhaust is not smoking.

[Skip]

Gents, thanks for the suggestions - everything there from the next step to the final point of investigation! I was under the impression that the non-return valves were an integral part of the oil system??? However, I shall give it a go...... The oil level when checked this morning was approx 10mm below the top mark, perhaps the bike just needs to loose a bit more before settling?? Before I go any further into it, I'm re-commissioning my Silver Wing for the road; I need a bike for work, which is why I bought the Bullet - The SWing has been retired!!

[Mark M]

Skip, basically the suggested mods will return your bike to the way the original design was intended to work. The extra bits were fitted to meet increasingly tough emissions legislation but did not prove to be ideal for the colder climate in northern Europe compared to the Indian home market! You are not the first to have this problem, it's easily fixed with cheap components and then the bike will do what you want. And then you'll want to buy lots of performance goodies from Mr H! REgards, Mark

[Gwilly]

Ok sorry Skip, Seems im in a minority of one, and on reflection perhaps im being a bit previous with suggesting top end strip.. But then i never need much excuse to lay on with the spanners...Tis a hobby and therefore a pleasure oddly.

I'm not too sure why you need two pipes and non returns out the back, if the catch can is gone then remove the duckbill from inside and fit this to the extended pipe from the gearbox vent..

The other pipe which comes from the timing side is simply a return pipe from the catch can, no longer needed and should be blanked off... no need to buy return valves... cheers gwilly

[PeteF]

I think it might be those NRVs you've used. Have a read of this,
http://www.whfolk.co.uk/REOCHUMBER/Arti ... eather.htm
Duckbill is - Breather pipe 560156.

[Noel (ogri)]

Can we look at this logically chaps with a multi pot machine wherever one pot descends thus vreating crankcase pressure another rises to take it away so a 500 single will displace 2000 litres of gas when revving at 4000 rpm . That is the magnitude of the problem you are facing B 4 taking into account blowby . Personally I found that using 20/50 oil helped but using as large a bore breather with a one way system ie reed valve or duckbill in a pipe raised as far from the crankcase as poss is probably the best . Ps a length of tig wire fed through this pipe with a pull through would shift the mayo