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[Dennis C]

Sorry Jack, can you speak up?, I must be a bit deaf this morning.

[Barry_Q]

Thanks for the input thus far. Substituting the ammeter isn't an option. The unit fitted to the Lightning is unique. It forms part of the instrument pod and sits between the speedo and tacho. The ammeter does work. It deflects to the left when starting, then goes nuts and settles to a slight charge when running. At this time, I'm inclined to think it could be a duff rectifier-regulator unit or alternator. My reasoning is; When the bettery was a bit low, there was a certain amount of 'flicker' on the neutral light when the bike was started. It's the same type of 'flicker' that you get on small Jap bikes that have a single diode to rectify the current from the engines flywheel magneto. I'm certainly interested in how Jaffas ammeter behaves.

[jaffa90]

When i bought my bike last August i noticed the ammeter needle was stuck to the right,later on i checked the voltage on the battery one morning and it showed 12.5 volts,started the bike and the battery showed 14.5 volts when rev ving.I decided to check the ammeter when i replaced an instrument panel bulb and to tighten up the ignition barrel.I managed to free the needle to the centre (don`t know why it was stuck) and check it in series (in line) when using a battery charger,it did move to + but i have no faith in the poor quality item and will not bother about it any more.Yes it is enclosed in the cockpit and if i do decide will fit a seperate voltmeter.

[simon]

Hopefully it won't be a sealed unit then as they are a very simple gauge and as long as you can get to it you can probably fix it. The needle has a lump of steel that swings the opposite side of the axle (looking for the right word there) inside a short heavy gauge coil indicating the direction of the current flow and its intensity. Either the needle mount it loose or it has dropped out. Either way if you can get to it you can probably sort it out. If you can't then the good news is that its failure won't affect anything else in the electrics.

[Jack]

Opps,looks like my post got lost,anyway i was only going to say my Lightning's ammeter doesn't bounce around like a normal Bullet's,only has a mild deflection even though it charges the system at a very healthy 14.2 volts.Could it be the rotor rubbing the stator Barry,i'd start checking down there for worn bearings,jack

[Mickey]

The Lightning ammeter is a damped unit (& not really practical to service) so unlike 'normal' Bullet meters it should not flicker wildly. I've owned two Lightnings & the gauges were always flicker free (incidentally the speedo is more accurate too).
Jack may well have a point though. When I replaced the original & wider Lightning primary chaincase housings with the nicely polished standard Bullet ones (for appearance) the close proximity of the outer case to the rotor/stator caused the ammeter to produce large + & - readings in constant normal running though on removal I could see no sign of actual touching. When the original outer casing was refitted the reading was returned to normal.
The Lighning 'dashboard' is not to everyones taste but if it's faulty it's easy to remove, make up a bracket & fit conventional instruments without have to resort to a casquette style.
REgards, Mick.

[Barry_Q]

Once again, thanks for everyones input. The ammeter has behaved this way ever since I've had it. I've had it for three years now and the electrics have never been a problem. The ammeter goes nuts above 3000rpm. Below that, it's quite steady. Just under two years ago, the engine was rebuilt when a main bearing failed. So, a dodgey bearing it isn't. I'm still inclined to think it's possibly a coil breaking down in the alternator, or a dodgey rectifier-regulator unit. I'm not all that worried about it as the bike still works. I just find it distracting.