- Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:12 am
#23511
Hi Nick, Foz and Trevorch... although I don't much much about the true mechanical issues it might be worth adding some evidence and advice to this thread. So here goes... When I noticed the problem with my electric start I had just done some very long distance mileage, and the engine oil was a little low. The first instance I had was that the ES wouldn't catch, then a loud clang and... nothing. Dead. It would then catch maybe on the second or third attempt (although I probably shouldn't have tried again after the clang!). I never heard anything for a while (a few months) after the first instance until a heavy backfire when throttling down from 55ish to a stop when I heard the same clang and the engine stopped dead - then issue with ES then resurfaced for a wee while, but I stopped using the ES for a while after that. Then, in early winter, I had to try using the ES as kicking wasn't being fruitful one morning... the clang was worse, and now happens every time (I think the extreme cold was a factor in the final demise of my ES). I then stripped the ES system from battery to starter motor to sprag (inside left hand engine casing). The only slight issue was a slightly undulated surface on the bearing faces of the sprag housing gears and a tiny fragment of metal broken from the sprag (1mm squared in size). I initially through the fragment could be the cause of the issues... but on re-installation the clanging still existed, so the problem realistically is the undulation on the bearing surface (i.e. wear). I think that oil starvation due to running low on my long journeys in the summer is the source of the problem. One day I will change the sprag housing over. Trevorch - did your single clang happen AS you had the ES button depressed, or was it after the engine started and you had released the ES button?............................................................................................................................................................................................................................... (don't know how to line break!)............................................................................................................................................................. Regarding kickstarting and the auto-decompressor... I kick the bike over with the clutch pulled 3 or 4 times to free off the primary and clutch basket, then I gently kick until I feel slight resistance from the piston (compression stroke). If I push with any force at all at that point, the auto-decompressor operates, the kick start lever pushes on right through compression... a hiss is heard from the exhaust and the bike wont start (if you don't hear the hiss when you push through that point, your auto-decompressor may be sticky) Instead, at the point in the stroke where I feel compression, that is where I give a proper kick (not pushing through the engine cycle, but a full kick...gentle, but deliberate and kicking to the bottom of the lever's range). A very slight twist of the throttle just BEFORE the engine catches really helps with first time starting, and then using the bistarter lever to build up revs (i.e. not throttling). This pretty much works every time, and the kick required probably wouldn't even knock over a cat... if you know what I mean... you don't have to welly it.
My bike runs fine on KS only