- Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:58 am
#22414
Hey
There is a section in Pete Snidal manual (@2002) with reference to the right foot shift kit but with no images
The Procedure
First, ensure that all the necessary parts are there. Check the parts you have against the list on the previous
page. When you are ready, begin:
Slacken off the rear brake adjuster at the wheel end.
W Disconnect the linkage spring from the stoplight switch. Ensure that the delicate switch will be safe,
and disconnect the front of the brake linkage rod from the lever at the end of the crossover shaft. Then:
I. Remove the outer gearbox cover. Unscrew and remove the Shifter Shaft Clamp Screw and tap in a flat
screwdriver blade to spread the clamp.
2. Remove the Stop Plate (67) - the first one of the Shifter Ratchet Assembly.
3. You will now be able to remove the shifter actuator lever, and the rest of the Shifter Ratchet Assembly
(58 - 66). You will likely have to remove the actuator lever clamp bolt completely, and then spread the
clevis slightly with a slot-blade screwdriver as you withdraw the lever and inner ratchet assy all at once.
Then unscrew the two pillar screws (65), and remove the Adjuster plate (57 and spring (56). Remove also
the circlip on the shifter crossover shaft - it will be found nestled in a greasy mess against the inner face of
the inner case.
4. Remove the inner cover. (See page 1 12)
Hot Tip:
One of the 5 inner case cover screws is a countersunk flathead - head flush with the greasy case surface.
They used a flathead for clearance behind the shifter assy. Be sure to find this under the grease and remove it
with the other 4 screws.
Another Hot Tip:
When the inner cover (43) is removed, leave the LS bellcrank actuator (46) in it and set it aside. You DO NOT
want inadvertently to reinstall the wrong lever!
5. Remove the Right-foot brake pedal and crossover shaft. - There are clamps on the levers at each end, and
circlip(s) on the shaft, inside the mounting lugs on the frame, as well. Use the old screwdriver trick to spread
the clamps as you remove the levers. Do the same for the LS gearchange linkage and crossover shaft. Check
carefully for circlips on the shaft.
6. Prepare your new RS inner cover for assembly. This will entail transferring over your old Kickstarter Stop
Plate, if necessary, and pressing in your new shifter actuator bushing and outer mainshaft bearing. If no press
is available, you may use a threaded rod and nutdwashers, with wrench/spanner sockets for mandrels.
Ensure that bearing and bushing are presented and pressed squarely to the cover. It is a good idea to "test
fly" your pressing arrangements before heating the cases and doing the actual pressing.
Hot Tip :
The actuator shaft bushing will likely be tapered on one end - this is to help with pressing it in. It wants to be flush with
the REAR (gearbox side) of the inner cover - it also acts as a bearing for the shifter plate on the outside, and must
project enough to do this. If it is tapered, ensure that the taper is fitted to the inside, ie press it through taperfirst
from the outside.
At this time, press the new sealed 6303 ZZ sealed main bearing into the case as well. Heat the cover to "spitting
hot" before pressing in the bushing and bearing.
Gearbox Vent:
As shipped, the Bullet has no venting for the gearbox. This is a good time to drill a small hole 13/64" - 2mm into
the outside of the Filler Passage - the bump on the outside of the cover just below the filler hole - so that any
buildup of foam or gasses will dissipate into the unsealed cavity between the covers. Hole should be about 1 /4"
- 6mm distance from the underside of the top face of the cover.
7. Side Trip - examining the kickstarter parts: Carefully draw the kickstarter shaft (32) out of the inner cover.
(1 9). Hold the spring-loaded plunger down with a small flat-blade screwdriver, and withdraw the pawl (34)
out of the shaft. Be careful not to let the plunger go, so as to avoid surprises with spring ejection. Once the
pawl is clear, let the spring pressure off slowly.
Examine the kickstarter parts. Check that the pawl (34) has good sharp corners on the face which engages the
kickstarter gear (1 9), and that the inner teeth in the gear itself (down there in the layshafl) are still well-cornered. If
not, this is a good time to make any necessary replacements. Check that the pawl moves freely in and out in the bore,
and that there is noticable spring tension. Check the condition of the Layshaft kshing (33) in the inside of the kickstarter
shaft by attempting to rock it radially on the layshaft. If there is noticable slop, you may elect to replace the kickstarter
shaft, or have the bushing replaced. Check the condition of the kickstarter shaft 0-ring (3 1). Replace if necessary.
Fit the new bellcrank actuator lever (46) into the inside of the cover. Be sure that you have not confused
the old and new (LS and RS) actuator levers!
8. Reassemble the kickstarter shaft/spring/plunger/pawl assembly into the new inner case. Grease the shaft
and bushing before re-introducing. There should be some slight tightness due to the 0-ring on the kicker
shaft. Ensure that the thrust washer (1 8) is on the Layshaft.
10. Carefully clean the gasket faces on case and cover. Using a new gasket, with sealer applied to both faces,
introduce the cover to the gearbox. Rotate the Bellcrank Actuator (46) so that it engages its operating tab
on the bellcrank as you present the cover to the gearcase - using a light, look into the opening and ensure
that it engages the bellcrank properly. You will find it easier to push the actuator shaft into the case an inch
or so before presenting cover to case.
There is a projecting ridge at the bottom of the gearcase, which fits into a corresponding recess in the bottom
of the inner cover. Be careful that the gasket does not get pinched here, and sheared by the action of being in
the wrong place as the case cover is tightened.
You will probably have to tap the mainshaft bearing onto the shaft - use a large socket as a mandrel - as you pull
the cover onto the case with the mounting screws. Do not use too much torque on the screws! (Stripping the
threads in the case could be disastrous!) Use light taps only - little force should be required. If it doesn't go,
take it off again and find out why.
I I. Replace all inner cover holding screws. There may be a countersink-style screw from the old setup, but
no countersink in the new cover. Use a regular screw for replacement - standard 1 /4-20 should fit. In a
pinch, you may use the old countersunk screw.
Mainshaft End Play:
Before fitting the Outer Bearing Nut, ensure that some endplay is present on the mainshaft - the position of the
bearing may have changed with the new cover, and this could be too far to the left, resulting in no endplay at all,
or too far to the right, see below. If no endplay is present, you may have to use two gaskets in the joint, or in
extreme cases, or a sincere desire to do it right, re & re the new bearing, shimming the end of the bearing
recess before installing.
12. Re-fit the Mainshaft Outer Bearing nut. Left Hand Thread! Torque is 35 - 50 Ft-Lbs. Find a gear by rotating
the Square Bellcrank Actuator Shaft, and have someone apply rear brake to keep the shaft from turning as
you torque it. Bend the tab washer over to lock - if the metal isn't too springy to bend. If you have used a
sealed bearing, the old oil slinger washer is now only necessary as a spacer.
Once the nut is tightened, pulling the mainshaft tightly against the inner side of the bearing, the position of the
shaft, and therefore of the clutch, is set by the position of the outer main bearing. Changing the case may have
altered this position. In extreme cases, the shaft may have been moved too far to the right for sufficient clearance
between the clutch hub and the inner primary case. This will result in serious noise when the clutch is rotated.
Test it now by putting the gearbox back in neutral, and spinning the engine with the kickstarter, using decompressor,
or better still by removing the spark plug, and listening for any knocking or banging from the area of the
rear inner chaincase. (You will have to replace the kickstarter on the open shafi temporarily.)
If such knocking is heard, you'll have to go back and remove the inner cover, and place .025"/.6mm of shim
washer(s) on the mainshaft between the inner oil slinger and the bearing. After re-fitting the inner cover and
tightening the mainshaft nut, retest and shim more if necessary.
13. Re-fit the bearing cover, and the kickstarter spring. Pre-tension the kickstarter spring, and hold the
anchored end in place with pliers as you fit and tighten the mounting screw it shares with the mainbearing
cover - avoid radial thrust on the screw until it's in tight. Be careful not to cross-thread the screw - it must
go in straight. Be sure to put the clutch throwout rod back into the mainshaft.
14. Refit and and adjust the detent plunger
15. Re-fit the Adjuster Plate and spring (57, 56.) Fit the pillar studs, (65) with their washers, to hold it in
place -leave the adjustment at the mid-point of the slots to start with. just "snug up1' the studs -
you'll be back!
16. Refit the Outer Ratchet Plate Assy. (62,3) to the Adjuster Plate. Ensure that the shifter shaft bushing in
the inner case cover projects through the large hole in the center of the first plate. Grease the area
around the hole, as the plate rotates about this bushing.
17. Fit the inner ratchet (67) onto the square shifter shaft (46.)
18. Now it is time to play with the shifter ratchet adjustment. Read the section on the Ratchet Shifter Assembly.
You may wish to read and review the entire section on shifter adjustment.
19. Once the shifter mechanism is performing as properly as you can get it, it is time to test it on the road.
Replace the outer cover. You will find that it helps to grasp the clutch cable nipple through the top
inspection hole of the cover, and work it into place in the throwout lever as you put the cover in place.
No gasket sealer is required.
20. Fit the neutral finder parts, the kickstarter, and your new gearchange lever. Fit the clutch cable and
adjust the clutch. Remove the filler and level plugs (42, 39) and top up the gearbox with SAE9O gear oil.
2 1. Fit the new brake lever mounting/fulcrum bolt into the presently-unused threaded lug on the frame
behind the chaincase.
22. Fit the new brake lever connect the linkage rod. Be careful to replace the cotter pin holding the rod in
the brake lever.
23. Reconnect the brake light switch spring to the linkage rod. Adjust the rear brake Test to see that the
brake light works. Adjust as necessary.
24. Before test riding, carefully review your "Stop Reflex" and gear changing strategies, remembering that
you've just changed feet!
25. Take the machine off the workstand, if applicable.
26. Sit on the machine, rock it back and forth as you go through selecting the various gears with the lever.
Check the gear indicator and see that proper gear engagement is occurring. If this checks out to this stage,
start the machine and test-ride. REMEMBER YOUR BRAKE IS NOW ON THE LEFT!
Switch-Hitter's Hint:
Every time I start a motorcycle, I try to remember to do a couple of little "practice stops" as I start off.
I don't come back to a full stop; just apply a little rear brake and shut of the throttle a bit, so as to
"re-programme" my brain, hopefully, for the particular machine I've just climbed onto. This is a good habit
to get into EVERY time you start a motorcycle, in the world of "switch-hit" shifting.
27. If further shifter adjustment is required, review the steps above and work at it until it's correct.
You are now a Bullet Mechanic!
