Forum

[Michael]

Hmmm, new issues! Turning the ignition key mostly starts the ECU and fuel pump, but once in a while there is a click but nothing starts up. More interestingly, in the normal circumstances where the ECU and fuel pump start up (and neutral light comes on) pulling the brake lever or pushing the back brake pedal trips the electrics off. Totally. Lights and all. I spent the last two hours checking all connections in the headlight nacelle - none seem to be the source of the problem. It could be the ignition itself, but I doubt (no idea why I doubt it - I just do). The neutral light switching off concerns me, and the wee red light under the fuel warning lamp glows when the front brake is pulled - so I think current is leaking somewhere between brake, neutral and ECU. So, my question, any ideas where to look? Does anyone know where the earthing points are? I'll keep looking... I hate electrics

[jaffa90]

Newish on here,electric goes to the least resistance as in a brake light rather than a neutral light,what voltage reading have you at the battery before switching on and after switching on?

[Michael]

12.5 volts across battery when off, 12.2 ish when on and ECU and fuel pump engage. Back to 12.5 if brake levers trip the ECU and fuel pump circuit. All seem normal except the tripping! Current definitely leaking somewhere...

[jaffa90]

I suggest you try a good known donor battery or a small car battery with its engine off using jump leads,my 5amp battery with NO electric start reads 12.52volts switched off.Yours being an electric start and a higher amperage (12a/14a?) should read 12.6v lead/acid battery and 12.8v gel sealed battery.Q,this clicking????????? is it when you press the starter button??????

[jaffa90]

As said i`m new to old type bikes,if modern you could remove the lighting fuse or any other for tracing a draining circuit.
Have you tried removing the brake light bulb?

[Michael]

Hi Jaffa, the clicking is when the key is turned. The electric start is kaput due to slipping sprag clutch. Normal operation is (i) turn key, (ii) click from solenoid-ey region (iii) slight whine noise as ECU and fuel pump start up, taking two or three seconds - warning light and neutral light are on during this period, (iv) when warning light goes out and whine stops you start the engine by kicking (or electric start if present). My bike is currently failing occasionally at stage (iii) or more frequently at stage (iv). Will check brake bulbs and earths today. Will also strip ignition lock and check - any other tips welcome. My batteries have always been no higher than 12.5 v but will charge anyway. Can't see why such a small deviation from normal would cause s system to start and then trip...

[jaffa90]

Have you disconnected the power to the starter motor just in case the starter solenoid switch is faulty/sticking on.

[Gwilly]

Sounds like a high resistance in the earth connection main frame to battery.

Possibly paint/ powder coating hampering good connection.

Power will attempt to earth through any means possible ie warning lamps etc.

Trace the negative from battery to frame, clean with file and emery, remake and lightly coat with silicon grease. You have to start somewhere. cheers gwilly.

[Frank]

When strange things happen such as this, i.e everything failing when the brake light activates, it is normally indicative of an earth fault, in this case probably to the brake light bulb. As Gwilly says check the main earth but as Jaffa says try removing the brake light bulb and seeing if that makes any differnce. If it does suspect the earth to the brake light holder but also don't dismiss the bulb itself which although it may still light could be high resistance inside. Worth checking withn a meter or changing anyway.

[jaffa90]

A good earth to frame is the fist step as Gwilly says,i would have thought that would have been checked with all the previous faults.