This Forum is now CLOSED use the link to get more details viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13924#p102587
By simon
#1664
Had a splendid Enfield day today. It's high summer in NZ and it was a scorcher. I got the replacement tank for the 51 painted and fine lined and transfers on ready for the final coat of clear tomorrow some time. I also decided to change the oil on the bitsa. To my dismay i discovered there was a far bit of brass dwarf in it and yet it seems to go fine. No question it was brass or bronze so where is it from? My only guess so far is that a timing bush has started to give up the ghost but all suggestions sought.
By Gwilly
#21213
Ah the old brass dwarf syndrome eh.. Devils to irradicate.

Mainly monkees this time of year in blighty.

Sympathy's mate....

By Mark M
#21218
Yes, the idea of Brass Dwarfs amused me too! Is it because all the Lord of the Rings films are made in NZ?! Anyway, as far as I can see there are only 2 possibilities for bronze/brass swarf in the engine oil. First is the timing side bush as you say but the other possibility is the small end, the rods came plain alloy as standard but could be supplied with a bronze bush inserted as a Factory exchange. I assume you are talking about a Redditch Bullet when you say "51"? REgards, Mark
By simon
#21234
Ok so much as I thought. There is no small end insert so it has to be the timing pinion bushes. Yes the 51 is a Reddich original.
By Mark M
#21238
Simon, there are bushes in the timing pinions too but the likelihood of these wearing catastrophically is very low, the bush I thought you were referring to is on the timing side end of the crank and is really there as an oil seal to prevent wet sumping, that is, oil draining from the timing chest into the crankcase. This doesn't usually wear quickly (I'm guessing you haven't seen these signs on previous oil changes,) unless there is a main bearing problem in the roller and ball bearings elsewhere on the crankshaft causing axial alignment problems. Personally, I'd keep using it but just be extra vigilant, these are tough engines and if you've got sunshine and a recovery policy I know what I'd do! REgards, Mark
By p
#21239
Oil pumps are yellow metal; may be worth whipping covers off for a look.....
By simon
#21242
The 51 is nearly back on the road so a pull down might be in order. pic of progress on the new rust free tank.
Image
By MadMike
#21251
Not again. Simon ignore any advice to continue running your engine if you are seeing metal in the oil.......regardless of colour. Oil and metal when combined make the most aggresive grinding paste. Those who advocate continuing to run an engine due to the efficiency of Enfield oil filtering systems are frankly wrong. Metal denotes wear and/or component failure. It will only get worse, it is not possible to halt the damaging process or even to slow it down. Strip your enginr, replace the failed/failing components and then make sure you thoroughly clean out every oil gallery, pipe, filter, internal surface, internal component and oil receiving vessel (tank) if it has one. For the small cost involved fit new bushes, bearings and oils seals throughout. Unfortunately many think that because an engine continues to run with contaminated oil and deteriorating bearing, that all will be fine. From the photo it is obvious that you have lavished much care, and a few bob, on the bike so do not spoil it for a few bearings, bushes and a can of oil. Sorry to rant but I have come across so many people without long term experience of "old type bikes" and with perhaps limited engineering training who do not fully appreciate the damage that contaminated oil and metal can cause. HTH.
By Alan R
#21254
Hi Guys----------SIMON, I absolutely endorse 100% all that MADMIKE has said !! If it's in the filter already---and, as you say--- a "fair bit" in quantity, then something is obviously wrong...STOP & INVESTIGATE !!!! This is to do with "Engineering Hygiene" and recognising a potentially expensive/harmfull(mechanically speaking) in its' early stages...As P says, the 2 oil pumps are Yellow Metal as well, so what if the SUPPLY PUMP is on its' way out ?? SAYONARA any moving surfaces, that's what....As a time-served Mech. Engineer with 40 + years in the trade, I know what action I would be taking to protect a large, fiscal & time investment--- and hoping for the best doesn't come into the equation.....PS}--- if it helps any, your'e not alone... I bought a SECOND Bullet last Summer and rode it home (200 miles)...There was a fair bit of smoke on the over-run, mainly at traffic lights etc. so I'm thinking just a head swap --- I keep a good range of ready-to-use items in the workshop... Off comes the head and, whilst at this stage so does the barrel, and guess what ?? The small end has been previously repaired with a bronze bush ------ This is now LOOSE and the piston can turn through approx 15 degrees !! SO, it's now an engine out and new con-rod ( ie crank strip & re-build ) PLUS new piston..... Hey-ho !! (Bullet Whisperer--- will be in touch soon)
By Alan R
#21255
--------I looks at your tank and, as an Ex-Royal Navy Marine Engineer thinks}---Spoil ship, ha'porth of tar, etc.

Shop for accessories at Hitchcocks Motorcycles