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[Mark C Reading]

Hi All,

I have a 1959 Redditch 500 big head bullet and am struggling to get an even clearance. I have new rotor and stator from our hosts but have a tight spot for 25% of the turn, but the remaining 75% is around 15 thou as advised. I've read on Norton and Triumph tech sites about possible solutions, including shaving a few thou off rotor, or stator, tightening up with a sliver of a drinks can in between then removing, bending studs, opening stud holes and tapping etc etc. No info found specific to Royal Enfields.

I've tentatively treed the last idea to no avail and before I consider the others wondered if anybody had come across any alignment issues resulting from the alloy stator mounting plate, which looks a little fragile?

Any thoughts gratefully received - it's my birthday tomorrow and a solution would be a great present!

Many thanks, Mark

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[PeteF]

How much clearance do you have at the tight spot? As long as you have some reasonable clearance you should be OK. It doesn't matter how close they get as long as they don't touch........Ever!

[Dennis C]

As Pete says.

[Norm]

Mark,
On a few occasions I have had to clamp the plates on the stator together and drill bigger holes through them (the 3 the stator mounts on) to get enough clearance. I have also had to take a skim off a couple of rotors as well, but usually bigger holes does the trick. Cut 6 strips from a plastic drink bottle inch wide by 2 inches long and as long as they can fit between the coils and the rotor, clearance is ok, some loose, some tight, doesn't matter

[Leon Novello]

Keep in mine that too large a gap will cause overheating and eventual burnout.

[Alan R]

Hello MARK C Reading------------- ALAN R (Ex-Reading = Southcote)---Basically it's as PETE F says... Our hosts do an instructional plastic strip that also doubles as a fitting shim..I had to re-fit the rotor/stator assy. on my 2005 Classic 500 earlier this year and, after a lot of messing around with other means---used the British Standard, Mk1 Eyeball combined with gentle tapping from a copper hammer and the clamping nuts just nipped until I could see a gap all the way around...Then tightened the nuts to torque figure.....That was approx 3,000 miles ago.. QED !!

[DUFFEL]

Hello Mark I have had that problem in the past what I do now is find the tight area by going round with feeler gauges(I wish some one would produce stainless ones non magnetic)when I find the area that is tight I mark where the poles are (sets of plates) with tipex remove the Stator and file a few thou off the sets of plates that are closes to the rotor with a large smooth half round file or one of the same radius as the sets of plates some time I found that it is only the Wax on the encased type that is stopping the feeler gauge and just filling the wax down does the trick but be careful you don't file into the encased wires

[seen some changes]

There are copper feeler gauges available,which are also useful if setting air gaps on some types of electronic pick ups http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Teng-Tools-FG ... 519bacccf9

[simon]

You often find one brass blade in a set of feeler gauges just for this sort of thing. It does take a bit of faffing around as I found out setting mine up but the careful use of a hide hammer on semi tightened mounting studs sorted it.

[DUFFEL]

Thanks Simon and Seen some changes I will veiw the site and get me some