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By Dean
#20489
Me again - tried the rope method and the head is still on. Even tried putting the bike in 1st gear and rolling it down a slope, with the rope in the cylinder, and dropping the clutch - all that happened was the rear tire locked up. As I said prviously, the head has broke loose and will rotate a few millimeters, and no longer seems hung up on the two studs, but it won't lift off. Have checked and rechecked that all bolts are off. The four long head nuts and the two bolts (one by the pl;ug and the other by the decompressor). Have beat on it with a wooden block until my arm hurts.
By Mark M
#20491
Dean, if you can lift the head even a little, fine wooden wedges (made from a hard wood like hickory or oak) can be used around the edges of the head to lift it a little further. When the gap is wide enough a tyre lever can be used to lift further BUT don't allow the steel to scar the alloy of the head, use a wooden packer to protect it. You need to work gently and evenly from both sides to get best results. If this doesn't work you need to take out the 4 long studs that go into the crankcase. Use one of the long sleeve nuts; you will have to drill it right through from top to bottom with a smaller diameter hole than the stud itself, then run a tap right through the nut and out of the top of the sleeve nut so it's threaded all the way through. Now run the sleeve nut onto the stud and lock it into place onto the stud with a bolt screwed in from the top. Now these 2 parts are locked together you should be able to unscrew the stud from the crankcase. Try lifting the head after removing each of the studs, it will usually lift after 2 or 3 studs are free. Hope this makes sense!
REgards, Mark
By Dean
#20497
Am I corrct in assuming that the head and cylinder can't be removed as a unit (with the motor on the bike) and then messed with on the bench (due to limited clearance because of the top frame of the bike)? I am planning to replace the piston/rings as part of this project.
By Mark M
#20502
Dean, thanks for acknowledging the time I took to post a reply. That's sarcasm by the way. Yes you can take the head and barrel off together but you will still need to take the studs out because that's where your problem lies. Sorry if I seem abrupt but the number of times I've replied to folk who don't even bother to say thanks over the years... That may be the reason none of your other posters have replied. Even children learn to say thanks you know... REgards, Mark
By Beezabryan
#20508
I have had this problem on more than one occasion and have developed a procedure to remove the head.... no brute force required just needs patience.
By Dean
#20510
Don't know if Beezabryan was relying to my post or to Mark's post. Don't think my lack of refinement justifies prying my head off (joking). I do appreciate the interest and time tsken by you guys to help me with my project. Appologize for not saying so. The wife seems to also think I have the same problem. I get so involved in something that I forget all else. Seems I have a lot of good ideas to pursue - will let you know how it turns out.
Thanka again
By Mark M
#20514
Dean, say no more. I know what it's like when you can't see the light! However, I would strongly suggest you move on to stud removal as the usual tips have not been successful so far.
REgards, Mark
By Norm
#20515
Big advantage of MrH's head studs with the square end, you can easily screw them out.
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