Forum

[david w]

Hi Alan ,
I started from the beginning as I said I would double check the setting of the timing . It is spot on ! The machine is now road tested ,it's fairly good but the jetting probably does need sorting. I have taken the carb to bit's ,the needle is set in the bottom groove ie the one nearest the pointed end ,main jet isR4 110,
Pilot R4 25. This machine is running standard carb minus pav system but with S&B conical filter the exhaust is standard.
Regards David

[Freddy W]

Hi David, according to the 2012 Hitchcock catalog Page 14..jetting for S&B filter with standard silencer are ……Main Jet 117.5 ………Needle jet PO ………….Pilot Jet 27.5…………slide 3(standard) and I believe the needle should be in the middle groove…………I followed their guide When I put an S&B filter and open silencer on my Sixty-5 and it worked perfectly. For this type of engine the Micarb is a good carb imho. ……Regards Fred

[Freddy W]

Hi David Removing the PAV should make no difference to settings providing you plugged up the hole under the carb. Regards Fred

[david w]

Hi There,
The jets in question are on order from our friends as is a new inlet manifold rubber. The machine is running weak where it wasn't before all my trouble began, just maybe the inbuilt ignition advance curve is slower than the manual weights set up! just a thought really but on Friday assuming bits arrive the carb will come off again and I will rejet. The open road beckons !!
regards all David

[Alan R]

Hi DAVID W, ------ From your info. it sounds like a previous owner(was there one ??) has been "Having a go" at carb setting. That needle position will have richened the mid-range mixture somewhat, with some small influence on the 1/4 throttle position as well.Hopefully you have not been tiding with the engine at full revs for any period of time as the original Main Jet size (now with an S&B filter) will have been weak...Incidentally, when changing from a cb points ignition to full electronic you may have noticed that the idling speed needed to be reduced slightly ?? Ignition timing as such cannot alter mixture settings BUT can give similar symptoms to it such as spitting back etc.

[Alan R]

------------sorry, that should read }----"Riding with the engine at full revs, etc------------"

[Riggers]

Hi David. I've read all the (as ususal) excellent advice on here from everyone but there's one thing more I think might help. That is adopting LesH's starting method. Firstly let's assume you've sorted all you reasonably can regarding jetting, and air leaks etc etc. Les's method basically means you move the engine further round its cycle before you swing the starter pedal. If you do a search on 'Les H' (sorry Les!) then I'm sure the sytem will get you to his post, but if not then here's an abridged version. 1) turn the engine until the ammeter 'cocks' as normal. 2) use the valve lifter to ease over compression. 3) now don't swing the starter at this point but move it further down its travel, but NOT SO FAR as to cock the ammeter again (a bit of practice might be needed). 4) Now swing the starter pedal. The idea behind Les's method is that your effort on the kick starter pedal is now powering the engine THROUGH the compression stoke and thus (in this case) minimising the chance of kick-back. Try it - it works for me first time every time! All complaints and claims for broken ankles to Les!

[david w]

Thankyou for all the advice on starting procedures , I am o.k with all of that .Alan s advice about running on full throttle in the state of tune that I find myself in is sound just to say I've never run on full throttle in my life!!! Do you think I should take more excercise? Anyway the jets and stuff have arrived this morning and so tommorrow the carb is coming off for a little fettling and then a bit of a road test if the frog lifts a bit.
Thanks to all David

[PeteF]

Trouble with thick frogs in your part of the world?

[Alan R]

---------I have the same trouble as well it seems.... I should proof read-it,read-it,read-it !!!...Will hop-off now !!