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#19459
stiction [ˈstɪkʃən]
n
(Physics / General Physics) the frictional force to be overcome to set one object in motion when it is in contact with another
[blend of static + friction]


Agree with Les that it's better to just back off slightly before re-torquing.An eigth to quarter of a turn should suffice.
#19469
Royal Enfield up to about electra X used British Cycle thread for head threads , it needs it's own type of socket , the thread is better than Whitworth for it anti vibrational stay fast effects , I never slack of first as you undo it's nut , washer stud bed in , gasket has been compressed , British cycle thread over ranks all others as a cylinder head thread .
#19473
Just some additional points. Pwayman suggest 1/8-1/4 turn and I would agree this is enough and my suggestion of up to a half turn probably is not required but will do no harm either.. Thanks also for finding the stiction definition. If the head nuts/bolts are loose, then as said, you can just re-torque them with out the turn back....but sometimes they can seem tight and don't move with the correct applied torque, but in reality they are under tightened, hence the need for the small back turn to free them up, just in case they are sticking. Feel assured though that even half a turn will not move the head or any other fastening at all. The last part of tightening a stud or bolt as you will know, is used to stretch it within its elastic state which maintains the joint pressure. By slightly undoing the nut, the stretch is reduced but the two faces held together do not move apart (unless clamping something like rubber)..... As for Dennis's question, re: head tightening...I also can't remember seeing that instruction in the bike's User Manual either, but I think I can remember seeing that at the "First Dealer Service" that head tightening would be carried out?....... In the Bullet manual, it states: "The cylinder head and base nuts should be checked again for tightness after the engine has been run long enough to get it thoroughly warm"....the reason being is that all gaskets become squashed and continue to become even more squashed as time passes especially under the influence of heat, this includes the paper gasket on the cylinder base(often covered in gasket goo)and even annealed solid copper head gaskets. The squashing releases some head bolt pressure and could allow gas leakage to occur. Eventually, further compaction of the gasket stops and no more tightening should be required..... The reason that modern engines don't require a re-torque of the head is because the design of them has allowed an "overkill" in the strength of the bolts/studs to fully compress the gasket way beyond any further possible compression whereas old engines never had the over engineered strength to do this, let alone having enough strength to seal the head with 100% reliability after any amount of tightening.
#19475
Quite right about backing off before torquing up BUT you must do it dry - no lube or Loctite. The torque settings would be way lower if you had lubrication present and would be difficult to quatify.
#19479
Hi Guys----------- I thought this might help }------ http://www.genuinesaab.com/psi/files/headretorque.htm -------------- As you can see it's specifically to do with a slight gasket leak problem BUT, it says quite clearly to slacken the (bolt) and re-torque etc. ........... I tend to follow the workshop manual instructons UNLESS an upgrade overrides it.... eg our hosts composite gasket replacing the standard copper one.....My No.1 Bullet (Classic 500) had the composite type fitted 3,500 miles ago---dry, as instructed, and no re-torquing done, and with no leaks apparent..... Incidentally, given that there are 6 nuts to attend has anyone thought of the sequence to use ??
#19503
I would have imagined that the sequence is the same as when fitting the head back on the barrel. Anyway it is good to read all the clever feed back on this issue. Because of the squashed gasket a re-torque "must" be neccesary, but since the composite one is a "new" product I started the thread to learn more about them. It seems to be that many different experiences has been made for this new type of gasket. No locktite, no gaskey gooh and no grease has been used in my case, so I guess I just re-torque the old style when an oppotunity comes around. all the best Jacob

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