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By PeteF
#19453
Oh, and if you do use the latter method just be very very careful not to drop the circlips!!
By terrystoy
#19482
Thanks all for advice so far. I have also gained knowlege from threads started by roberto and JTC.The question about head stud washers lead me to my original problem because I found the washer under the loose nut was in two pieces. All is well with the piston and I expect gaskets and washers from our hosts tommorow. QUESTION in a responce to another thread AllanR states that he used hylomar with a composite head gasket but in HMCs technical notes they say (A little jointing compound on the head gasket should be used) which is correct ? Terry
By Alan R
#19484
Hi guys----------Erm,well ok--those methods can be used BUT I seem to manage on my own----without a clamp (they're usually for top-of-the-block entry. eg cars etc.)---- and with the piston assy. in place ---- the trick is to make full use of that taper section at the bottom of the barrel as mentioned already....Using some 80 or 100 grit paper, remove any turning marks that may be left, until a smooth surface is achieved.....place the base gasket in position,.....put the piston rings at 120 degrees to each other....... set the piston at TDC ..... place some clothes over the crankcase mouth (in case you do break a ring).....lightly oil the piston and bore of cylinder .......gently lower the barrel with one hand whilst controlling the piston with the other. Now here's the trick }--- once the top ring has started to enter the taper section, simultaneously "wriggle" the barrel in a rotary manner AND lower it as well, SLOWLY !!..... The rings will be encouraged to compress and should enter one at a time SLOWLY !!!! ...If all has gone well the barrel can be firmly pushed down----removing the clothes ----- until seated on the base gasket......Using temporary clamps to hold the barrel in place, gently turn the engine over by hand.... If it is smooth and quiet---HOO-Ray !!-----any scraping sounds then remove and investigate !!------------------ Sometimes a medium flat-bladed screwdriver can be used to help a ring start...... Works for me and usually takes 5 to 10 mins to do.
By Alan R
#19485
Hell again ---- Where did I mention about using Hylomar with a composite gasket, chaps ?? I usually fit them DRY, as instructed---certainly my current one is. I would use a gasket compound on a Copper one---especially around the push rod tube area.
By Alan R
#19498
Hi guys---------- They say 1 picture is worth 1,000 words so, if I've got this Photobucket thing sorted you should be getting 4,000 words-worth.(no, not the poet !!)----------- Any way here goes. I'll do the description after the downloads------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Image -------------------------------------- Image --------------------------------------- Image -------------------------------------------- Image
By Alan R
#19499
Hi guys, here's the description ------ First image}-- shows the barrel being held on the 5 main studs by slightly off-setting it.. At this stage the barrel and piston have been lightly oiled and MOST IMPORTANT !!!!!!----- the base gasket lightly greased and fitted..... I have used a long-shaft Phillips screwdriver (With a 5/16" diam. body) passed through the gudgeon pin to stop the piston from dropping down any further. -----------------------Second image}--- now and the holes have been aligned with the studs to allow the barrel to move down UNDER CONTROL and wriggled thus encouraging the taper at the lower end to "gather-up" the rings ONE-BY-ONE and done SLOWLY !!!!... Now, both the piston AND the barrel are supported by the screwdriver shaft....------------------ Third image}--The screwdriver shaft has been GENTLY withdrawn and the barrel allowed to slowly move down onto the crankcase.... Please note that barrel has a steel insert fitted to take the "short" stud. -------------------------------------------------------- Finally image No4}-- A new Composite gasket from Mr H has been fitted ----DRY...... The piston is the forged 8.5:1 CR from our hosts and has already done 3,250 miles in an iron barrel with (De-) compression plate to give an estimated 7.5:1 CR..... Meanwhile the head has been given a complete overhaul, new bronze guides, valves, caps, springs and the rockers modified to have Samrat arms in the original steel bodies. Wellnow, I think that just about covers it ??? Any questions ?? See me after School !!!!!!

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