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[Yamaha1]

John B - that sounds like a good tip - I've just managed to get hold of a 500 mile old exhaust system for £25 from eBay, so I'll check this idea when I get to fit it.

At the moment, I am replacing the decompressor assy - OK, I know they can be cleaned, reground, and reused - but I figured by the time I've replaced the spring and the sealing washer, I'd just as well fit a new one for about £15.
The old one didn't seem very tightly screwed into the head, as there is a nasty mess around it, which is tomorrows job to clean the head up, and fit the new one. I can't help wondering if the bike had been running rich (it's only done 3000km) and if it really needs a decoke, if all that crud can seep out past the decomp. valve!! Must see what position the carb needle is at, soon.

There was also a very slight weep of oil under the outer clutch casing, so, armed with a new O-ring, I removed the cover and cleaned it all up. I then noticed a good 1" of play in the primary chain - the guide seemed undamaged, but then I noticed the adjuster was completely loose - and had wound itself fully up, giving that excesive amount of play!!
Flushed with success I readjusted it to about 10mm play, fitted the new O-ring, and put some ATF fluid in.

WOW - didn't it now sound quieter - I think it had been contacting the casing before on tickover!!

When I bought the bike a couple of weeks ago - being the Olive Drab Military model, it looked just that, drab. Thanks to Autoglym polish, it now has a semi-mat sheen to it, which I think looks a lot better, but I'm sure some purists will disagree!!

Thanks again, guys, your input is very much appreciated.

Mike

[Alan R]

Hello again, matey !! ------------- well done, full marks for the primary chain etc... Yes, at worst case scenario it can make contact with the casing and give a nasty-sounding clatter........Now how can I phrase this next point ?? .... DRAB OLIVE GREEN--- It's not a "purist" thing really, it's the actual colour that the Armies of the world paint their vehicles in (Apart from the desert or Arctic that is--)....BUT, maybe you could have an idea that's been overlooked here?? When advancing into combat your shiny bike might just blind the "away team" into surrender ?? LoL.. Only joshing you a bit......"Ride-with-Pride".... PS I bet GRUNDA 12 is wincing but we'll keep it our secret, eh ??... Ta-ra 4 now.

[Yamaha1]

Hi Alan, well, I figured that a shiny olive drab would give the bike at least a 30mph speed advantage, compared to a dull finish!!
Plus the extra speed will make the enemy think it's a new-fangled hi-tech type of missile!!
Still mulling over whether to remove that PAV system - listening to Norm, it sounds like I may be opening a can of worms!! Don't fancy having to ponce about rejetting needlessly. I did get the upgraded flasher kit, as I couldn't see the warning lamp in the speedo - still can't, for that matter - but the indicators are certainly brighter. May experiment with an LED to replace the warning lamp - and also one for a neural indicator, which strangely isn't fitted as standard. Think I will order that Filler mod, though - costing me a bl**dy fortune, this Enfield!!

Mike

[Chris [Stockport]]

I've just looked back at the original very SIMPLE question about sealing the exhaust! This has grown! My feeling is just to tackle one bit at a time, nice and relaxed, so you can enjoy it for a while then move on to the next bit. And if it HAS changed anything then you know exactly WHAT changed it, rather than thinking was it because of abcxy or z. On both my bikes, Classic 500's, I have NOT rejetted or done anything to the carbs. I put the tea caddy air filter on and it continued to run fine. It has NOT become a pancake filter : ) I removed the PAV and DID replace the downpipe purely for cosmetic reasons; I didn't personally want to use the blanking plug into the exhaust but wanted it smooth all the way down. Others may disagree. By the way this was all years ago and has not needed any more fiddling at all. OH NO! THIS WAS MEANT TO BE A SHORT AND SIMPLE POST BUT IT GOT MORE> I'll post it anyway. Good luck, Chris

[Yamaha1]

Hi again Chris - yes, the topic HAS grown - just the job, really - I'm learning loads of tips along the way!!

Unbelievably, less than a week after being recommended to use silicon sealer if required, today Aldi stores are selling heat resistant silicon in an 80g tube for £1.99 - for use up to 300degC !! Since fitting my "new" s/h eBay exhaust, I didn't find I needed any silicon - but I bought a couple of tubes "in case" !! I did also need to elongate the mounting bracket, and it seems gas tight now.
Today I practiced removing the back wheel - actually, so I could clean the back of the gearbox better!! Had to enlist the help of No1 son to tilt the bike, whilst I hooked the wheel out - I guess by the roadside you could use the pavement to give some clearance. Those Military ammo boxes and frames do hinder access a bit, though.

Mike

[John J]

Mr Yamaha, If you look at the rear sub-frame, you will see two shouldered nuts each side. Losening the top one and fully undoing the bottom one, the whole rear mudguard can be swung up, exposing the rear wheel. If you have a dual seat then this will have to be removed first.

[Yamaha1]

Oh, were life that simple, John!! As I said earlier in the thread, mine is the Military model, with the pannier frames and "ammo box" panniers, and part of the frames go through the mudguard, so that would be a nightmare to unbolt. I was surprised how well thought out the rear wheel removal system was - when I first looked at the rear wheel - before I managed to get a handbook, it looked to me like the whole drum and chain assembly needed to come off also!!

Mike