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By Leon Novello
#18587
I agree with Beezabryan; larger indicators are more visible, and in my opinion the standard ones look very good compared to some of the small ones which are almost invisible on a sunny day.
By Symon
#18595
Norm, the ones we fitted were normal bulb - page 71, 200014. I assumed with 2 wires they would be insulated from the body but, with ours anyway, not the case. Not sure if they are faulty or its just the design but they work fine now connected the right way.
By Les H
#18596
As mentioned or hinted at by others, it is possible that chosen live wire is actually the earth wire and and the body is also seeing an earth thus shorting out the flasher unit....HOWEVER as far as I can see BOTH wires are coloured BLACK? so it is logical to presume that some indicators are correctly wired and other not. SO it will be better to disconnect ALL the FOUR flasher units and switch on the turn signal to the side you are reconnecting back ...if the fault re-appears at any point you will then need to reverse the wiring for that particular indicator light unit. Then do the other side similarly. A better way is to disconnect all the four units and test wih a meter to find out which wire of the two is earthed and mark with a wrap of coloured PVC tape to ensure you have the correct earth wire....ALSO Note if the bulb within these units is greater than 10W each, a high power flasher unit is required... See item: 92030 BULB AND FLASHER KIT, 23w in acceesory catalogue.
By Les H
#18597
Just to add that to make testing with a meter less misleading the bulb of each unit should be removed as the earth test on the live wire will also see the lamp body via the low cold resistance of the bulb's filament. This will allow an easy evaluation as to what wire is what...assuming that there is an earth connection duplication to the indicator stem.
By nordicgloom
#18693
Thanks for the advice, it's all very much appreciated.

The bulbs within the supplied indicators were in fact 23w although 10w were also supplied. I am in the process of testing with multimeter and reconnecting everything from scratch though I do have a niggling fear about having blown my relay as Symon mentioned, as the afore mentioned buzzing has ceased. I will let you know if life returns.

Many Thanks!
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By Chris [Stockport]
#18699
A few thoughts:
=1= If it seems really dead, it MIGHT not be... maybe just blown a fuse? The Enfields do sometimes seem to have extra fuses in odd places. So, why not wire it directly to the battery via an online fuse for further protection, to check it. =2= You did remember to switch the ignition on? =3=A normal bulb will, of course, work either way round (+/- or -/+).... in other words if there are two wires to it, you could reverse them and it would still work. However, it is best practice to wire the bulb holder correctly, with the outer part(that holds the body of the bulb) to earth and the little connector at the bottom to live. This means that if in the future a +/- sensitive LED or whatever IS used, there won't be a frustrating nothingness. It is also better for testing purposes: If you want to check that the earth is ok then you could run a wire direct from the battery's negative to the outer part of the bulb holder, without the risk that it's really connecting to live.
Good luck with this, Chris
By nordicgloom
#19184
Hey, please forgive the lateness of this reply. So I wired up all the indicators correctly, got out the multimeter and found out what a flasher can was. Now as far as I can ascertain, I have current at the flasher can and the flasher can has continuity but should the thing rattle? My spidey sense feels it might be the problem but that's essentially irrelevant. Would the buzzer unit affect the situation at all? I only mention because I get no continuity from it. Again the advice has been very much appreciated, luckily indicators can be done without at a push.
By Norm
#19185
Ok so I will ask another question, were the original blinkers working before you changed them?
Cheers Norm

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