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By Howard 612
#18237
Hi Alan, yes I think the dreaded turbo lag was at the back of my mind when I was wondering about the long pipe, but indeed yes I feel that it could be doubling up as an intercooler. So therefore no absolute need for the reverse flow head. I am keen to have a look at the magazine that Paul mentions, I will be ordering a copy and inspecting the pictures and text very closely. Oh and Alan PLEASE don't leave the forum, it has been good to discuss things with you, and the occasional bit of jovial chat as well. :-)
By Paul
#18239
Ahoy Captn. TIGHT-WAD Snr!

I'm sincerely sorry you can't afford just 66pence an issue for a unique dedicated Royal Enfield 70 page magazine ;-)

You are making being thrifty into an artform LOL!

How does the Chadwick toy shop survive with such thrifty artists?

kind wishes

Paul.





By Bullet Whisperer
#18241
Hi Howard, another place to drive a blower might be from the distributor drve, obviously only if you fit a crankshaft ignition setup to take care of the sparks. Many blowers are driven at less than the engine's speed, so it might work there and that way you'd be nice and close to the inlet tract, too. Failing that, it might be possible to cut into the top of the primary case and take drive from above the top run of the primary chain, although I realise you would not get many sprocket teeth contacting the top run in this manner.
Cheers, Paul.
By Alan R
#18242
OK---OK, (Said with a wry smile!!)---so who's been following other threads then ?--------That's JUST the problem with any of these forums---especially as you don't know----or will never meet---any of those concerned. It's difficult to judge just how to pitch it......Anyway,'nuff said,... to business then}---- Last of the Summer Wine might have finished but the teachings of "Aunty Wainwright" will go down in the annals of fiscal history. My mentor if ever there was !!...PLUS, I was self-employed and am into model engineering as well as classic m/cycles so nothing but NOTHING gets thrown away. (thinks--) maybe just one purchase might not hurt ----- too much, anyway.
By Les H
#18320
This unit would be my choice (C8-6): http://www.rotrexsuperchargers.co.uk/Ro ... html...The web site is excellent and has lots of info (British to boot!) It is very small and light and has its own built in oil supply. I would use a CR of around 5:1....(Use 5mm compression plate)....Aim for around 35 BHP at about 4500-5000 RPM. By keeping the maximum revs low, you might get away with an alloy rod but steel rod is obviously better. Any more power and you are going to need a much stronger bottom end. Use the Alloy barrel for better cooling. Check carb spring is strong enough to shut the slide down as sometimes the extra suction can make it stick. You'll end up with loads of torque anywhere in the rev range, so you can gear the bike highly and still have it pull hard even in top.
By Alan R
#18334
Hi LES H ------------- can't get that link to work. Can you try another ?? Yes, agree entirely with the approach for more torque rather than higher RPM and then gear-up accordingly. I was Grass-Tracking in the 1970's and would use the same approach on carburetion---having built a variety of different induction tracts to experiment with.... One thing to be wary of though is when fitting (De--?)compression plates under the barrel then the whole of the engine ABOVE that point is also raised up by that same amount-----making fitting & removing the inlet rocker cover almost impossible without modifications in some way, brings the carb. top into contact with the main frame tube, and affects the exhaust pie as well....just minor items that will need to be addressed.
By Alan R
#18335
---------- AND, 4 of the cyl. head bolts will have that much LESS thread to pull on.
By Alan R
#18336
----------"exhaust pie" ?? ----------crunchy on the outside, hollow on the inside. !!!!!!
By Les H
#18337
http://www.rotrexsuperchargers.co.uk/Ro ... l.....it's the same as the other one Alan...you must be swiping a bit too far.....Re: compression plates. Yes everything is moved up so push rods would need to be longer too..Hitchcocks sell 2mm & 3mm as standard so maybe the 3mm would be enough as CR would then be 5.7:1 which is probably low enough and would still allow head removal and nut strength sufficient. You could always chop a bit out of the top tube or thump in a great big dent Alan...that's what the American Chopper guys would do :) Only joking of course. Always amazes me that those chopper frames have a tiny single top tube, when the bike must weigh something like 800 pounds and reach over ten feet long...THEN they drill it full of holes for wiring or for hiding the oil pipes :(

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