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By Les H
#17841
No need to appoligise Riggers, I found it hard to understand what I said myself:) it is a slightly fiddly process, but if it continues to work for me, then is very worth it indeed. The kickbacks were so viciously powerful they were nearly shattering my gearbox and I'm sure the kickstart pawl has been damaged. My knee is still sore a week later, and I'm lucky not to have suffered more physical harm. To tell you the truth, I'm still a little nervous even though I can start it reliably now...I just know it's going to kickback at sometime just to catch me out, Oh the pain!!!
By MartinB
#17845
Any pointers here for us Electra owners with a dodgy electric foot?The ammeter is of no help due to the electronic ignition and the de-compressor is also of no use.
By Les H
#17846
Hi Martin...even without a decompressor or ammeter indication you can still find TDC on the compression stroke simply by applying SLOW pressure on the kickstart. The compression will leak away untill you feel the piston is at the top of the bore. When it is, stop at this point and carry out the routine exactly the same as I described to Riggers at 02.11 PM but ignore the decompressor usage....Using the decomp simply makes moving the piston a touch easier but is not essential.

By taper
#17860
Hi Les the same problem gave me a bad right leg after a nasty kick back.but as you have said do not always follow the laid down procedure,each bike seems to have its own prefered manor of starting,I have found that if you take he kick start over TDC and apply a more consistant but more gental kick then the bike starts more easily.
By apparently lucky eddie
#17951
So what you're suggesting is to get the motor towards or at TDC after the exhaust stroke, boot it so that the motor is immediately on the induction - compression - ignition stroke whilst the kickstart is only part way down with the weight of the rider and the inertia from the crank etc at max. Right? Is this not what we do anyway? As a former Goldie, Matchless, Norton and Ducati single rider I've always done that. I mean its a bit pointless kicking an engine on the compression stroke because there is no charge in the cylinder to go bang. In my experience of big single that would be a quick way to break an ankle.
By Riggers
#17952
Hi Les. As I said before my Classic has always been a bit reluctant to get going especially on cold mornings. However this morning from cold I used your method and BINGO! she happily fired immediately. So having tried new points, endless fiddling with a colourtune to get the perfect mixture, faffing about with timing discs to get the spark spot on, a new coil, plug and HT lead, - all it needed was a Les-H kick!!! Nice one! Cheers mate. Off to the North York Moors now for the weekend. Tony.
By Les H
#17953
Hi Eddie. No. What I am saying is that the piston is first set at the TDC of the firing stroke (not the exhaust stroke). Normal practice is to edge the piston just past the top and kick away but with that technique, I have found that the full swing of the kickstart does not take the piston around two revolutions back to the firing stroke which is the one you will hope to fire and start the engine…I know what you are going to say and that is the flywheel inertia will take it round, BUT ....what I have discovered, is that if you start the kickstart swing with the piston further round the 4 stroke cycle, kickbacks can be reduced dramatically simply because the flywheels are being moved positively and have not slowed by the compression stroke before being fired. By testing, you can find a START position of the kickstart that has moved the piston further round the 4 stroke cycle so that the firing point is reached JUST before the range of the kickstart swing finishes. By doing so, the flywheel is moving at the fastest possible rate that you can kick it at as it has been driven all the way positively rather than allowing the inertia to try to compress the gas which slows up the flywheels too much and allows the kickback. By meeting the firing point at the END of a hefty swing, gives little chance of kickback occurring. Kickbacks occur because the flywheel speed is too slow to carry the piston past the ignition point. For low compression engines or small capacity ones, the normal "just passed TDC" method works fine (mostly) but engines with big bore kits and HC pistons might avoid brutal kickbacks if you try the method I describe. It works reliably for me, and has transformed an evil brute to a docile pussy and I was hoping others might get the benefit. If it doesn't work for you or you don’t have any problems with kickbacks, then this is all irrelevant but I am pretty sure someone will benefit.
By svante
#17955
Thanks Les H. Your method is perfect, but I can not help that I laugh a litle. The engine as construction is about 60 years old, and finally we know how to start it ;-)
By Beezabryan
#17971
In my early days of Bullet ownership having got the thing reasonably well sorted familiarity started creeping in, just turning the key & merrily swinging the K/star........Until that evening when Bullet decided the owners familiarity had gone far enough & kicked the owner with such ferocity that the owners right foot & ankle were blackened up to the calf...... A salutary lesson never since repeated :(

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