Forum

[will]

Once again many thanks.
you are a clever lot thank you, do not really understand but will take all information on board. bike has no wiring, bar 3 alternater wires. gr-wh, gr-yel and gr-bl which are connected to, i believe is a rectifer. OH and a bl-wh wire from contact breaker. I just require kick and go. thank you.

[Les H]

To save some words, take a look at the last page of this: .......http://www.gabma.us/elec/3-wire_alt.pdf.........just connect up the alternator as shown and ignore the switches shown below on the diagram. The output from the rectifier (Neg DC) goes to the new - term of the capacitor. The other side of the capacitor goes to earth (Observe polarities on can of capacitor) Take a wire from the - term on the capacitor via a switch (of your choice) to the SW terminal of the coil. As said before the CB terminal of the coil goes to your contact breaker points as normal. This is the most simple system, but as siad before it can be bettered, but should get the bike to run. If this is too complicated perhaps you had better get someone to help you as there is no simpler circuit than this.

[will]

Once again many thanks especially LES H thank you.
So hear goes Reduce alternator to 2 wires by joining gr-bl to gr-yel. Both alternater wires are connected to a new silicone rectifer at AC. The rectifer neg DC goes to the new - term of new capacitor. Other side of capicitor goes to bike frame earth. Then take wire from - term of capacitor to on-off switch. wire goes from other side of switch to SW termial of my 6 volt coil, CB termimal of coil returns to contact breaker.
Please say this is right. Can you advice on most suitable capacitor, rectifer, and on-off switch. many thanks from the thick one.

[Les H]

[Les H]

Hi Will, A picture paints a thousand words so i knocked up a diagram...hope this helps...To view if too big HOLD CNTRL AND HIT THE - KEY

[Les H]

You can use any switch of your choice, nothing sppecial required. The Lucas Capacitor equivalent is specified as 4700uF but 10000Uf is better and you can get a 63V working electrolytic for around a fiver on ebay but you will probably have to solder on the wires as the "screw type" terminal versions are are more expensive.

[The_Italian]

Hi All. this is my first post here, so apologies for the etiquette.

I would like to do the same on an electra x or a sixty-5 but i would like to keep lights and horn working.
is it possible ?
shall I create a new post on the forum ?

Thanks

[will]

once again many thanks
Yes this helps a great deal. I have been looking in to a big black sack and not been able to find the light.
But now we have light. fantastic drawing. many thanks

[Les H]

message to the "The Italian"...as you can see there is very little difference to having a battery in circuit...the capacitor simply replaces the battery. Your machine is already equiped with a decent rectifier and voltage regulator. You could try to simply replace the battery with a capacitor and leave the lighting side as it is if it is the AC/DC system. Whether the low output side of the alternator that normally charges the battery is powerful enough to charge the capacitor for starting, I do not know, but it is easy to try and see what happens. If you cannot get it to fire then you will need to make quite some changes to the wiring and combine both low and high outputs from the alternator (4 wire type) and run the headlight from the capacitor terminal, However for starting you will have to keep the headlight switched off I would imagine.....maybe someone has done this and will let you know?

[simon]

Nice diagram Les H!

S:)