Forum

[Bullet thrasher]

I definitely agree that clutch case flexing is an issue. Surely our venerable hosts could offer a cheap kit along the lines of PeteF's. After paying him for designing it of course.

My clutch and gearbox are a constant nightmare as I drive a lot in heavy traffic. I've fitted the lifter bearing kit and 3 heavier springs, which of course probably make the case flex more too. If I have to manouver to the front of the que in 1st, forget it, I have to sit there with the clutch dragging and rev the engine to stop it stalling. I still get slip from cold too.
Perhaps Pete could offer the kit himself. Not that I couldn't knock one up but no workspace available, I have to do everything in the street and it would be an easy job if all I had to do was lift the case, drill it and fit.

[Norm]

I'm not sure if all these sugestions carry much weight, because I have no idea if there is any gearbox flex in a UCE and that was the question, it has nothing to do with an Albion and I would be surprised if the 5 speed box would have any flex in the cover because nothing touches the cover

[Bullet thrasher]

Your right of course Norm we've drifted off topic. Shows us Indian Albion/clutch sufferers a half a chance and wel'll be off moaning about our notchy boxes, as the actress said to the bishop.
Got to get savIng for one of those new fangled fancy dan 5 speed boxes

[Les H]

Yep sometimes being dainty and precise with the gearchange works, but changing gears as fast as you can without shutting the throttle works fine too... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENyLAwNRATo...I'll have to make another one of these vids with my AJS short stroke for comparison

[simon]

Whatever the box and clutch they all get notchy if the adjustment is wrong. I never cease to be amazed how much better my 860GT Duc goes with lubricated cables. The clutch in particular is very susceptible drying out and this seems to cause lost movement or perhaps it simply impedes my use of the available travel. Whatever a soaking in penetrating oil and bingo new machine. I suppose this is why the latest machines have gone hydraulic. Also of course it results in broken cables, something which both the Duc and the Bullet seem to be very prone to. I carry a spare for both bikes all the time now because they are both too odd to buy off the shelf anywhere and a trailer is so ignominious!

[Fido]

Yes PeteF, I get a clunk each time I shift into first at rest. I'll get it checked.

[Fido]

So, the bike had a 2000 mile service. I was told my gear changing issue was due to too much slackness in the drive chain. Being clueless about these matters it's not something I'd noticed. I've arranged to pop in after another 200 miles for a mechanic to show me how to check and adjust the drive chain tension.

I confess I've not noticed much difference since the service as I've been gear changing smoothly following Gwilly's advice.

And I'm still clunking when I'm shifting into 1st gear at rest.

But I'm happily pottering around when it's not raining too heavily.

[trevorch]

Dra All,
The clutch operation of an EFI and pre UCE engine are quite different. There is in effect no case to distort. The clutch operating shaft is supported at the top and bottom of the left hand casing that is stiff enough to withstand the side thrust without distortion.
The EFI has seven friction plates and six steel plates and is of course a wet plate design. However, the engine, gearbox and primary case share the same oil, usually 15W/50. I suppose when the clutch is disengaged, there will always be some drag between the plates due the presence of oil, so the main shaft will rotate, but with very low torque. When 1st gear is selected, there must be some clunk felt as the first gears move in to mesh. There is no synchromesh. The primary chain has a self adjusting tensioner, spring operated, with a ratchet to hold position (Not hydraulic as I read somewhere.), so adjustment is not required and has no influence on the drive take up. The secondary chain is isolated when the clutch is engaged, so adjustment here will also not help.
I think we have to live with what we have but note, if the 1st is engaged at standstill, it helps to hold the clutch in for a few seconds before selection. In my experience the gearbox action becomes smoother after a few thousand kilometres.

For comparison I was riding pillion on a friends Susuki 1800 a few weeks ago, that had covered 16,000km. The clunk was even worse than on the EFI and that has a shaft drive. Owner said that it was normal.

Cheers TrevorCH